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The Authentic Guide to Santa Fe

Archive for the ‘What To Do in Santa Fe’ Category

Santa Fe History, Living and Thriving

Wednesday, June 8th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

El Rancho de las Golondrinas, 334 Los Pinos Rd, Santa Fe 505-471-2261

http://golondrinas.org/Museum_Info/Driving_Directions/index.html

El Rancho de las Golondrinas

Just south of the city of Santa Fe, visitors can find a beautiful and unique place that seems almost unchanged by the winds of time. At the same location for over 300 years, El Rancho de las Golondrinas, the “Ranch of the Swallows,” is one of the most historic ranch properties in the entire southwest. An official rest stop on historic El Camino Real, which led from Mexico City through the desert of Chihuahua to the provincial capital of Old Santa Fe, Golondrinas welcomed and comforted many a weary traveler taken with the charms and challenges of the New World. In 1710, the massive ranch was subsequently acquired by Miguel Vega y Coca, and as his daughters intermarried with La Familia Baca, the property was passed down through the years to their descendants.

In its present-day incarnation, El Rancho de las Golondrinas came into being as a vision of the Curtin-Paloheimo family, who acquired the property in the early 1930s. Their dream of bringing the history of New Mexico alive to the descendants of the people who created it led to the renovation of existing historic buildings,  the construction of historically accurate structures  on old foundations, and the transfer of related buildings from other New Mexican sites. On encountering Golondrinas today, visitors will find an 18th century placita house complete with defensive tower, a 19th century home with all of its outbuildings, a morada, a molasses mill, a threshing ground, several primitive water mills, a blacksmith shop, a wheelwright shop, and a winery and vineyard, all combined to create an intriguing and authentic depiction of the many elements essential to a frontier life in early New Mexico.

Penitente Morada at las Golondrinas

At its heart, the mission of Golondrinas is to create a respectful understanding of the language, culture, traditional arts and proud history of Spanish Colonial, Mexican and Territorial New Mexico. In short, la herencia, heritage! Particular emphasis is placed on its use as an educational facility, and teachers and students are welcomed throughout the year for tours, workshops, seminars and unique learning experiences. The many events held at the ranch provide visitors with an unrivaled sense of Santa Fe’s past, along with satisfying the western dreams we all seem to have at one time or another.

The Acequia - NM's Lifeblood

New Mexico Farming, the Acequia Way

This week, the Authentic Guide is delighted to feature an interview with one of Santa Fe’s truly knowledgeable and dedicated museum professionals, John Berkenfield, Executive Director of El Rancho de Las Golondrinas.

John A. Berkenfield, Executive Director of El Rancho de las Golondrinas

How did you find your way to Las Golondrinas, and what keeps you there?

I came here for the first time in 1984. I had spent my whole life vacationing in exotic places, since I worked in the international offices of IBM and was able to combine business trips with pleasure. Based in Paris, I was responsible for the public face of IBM abroad, with responsibility for how the company appeared in 167 different countries. I knew the U.S. on the coasts, but didn’t know anything about the SW. We took a trip to visit my nephew, who was a park ranger at the Grand Canyon, and we hiked down to the bottom of the canyon and camped. He said if you like this, you have to go to Santa Fe, so we came out and just fell in love with it. We came in April 1984, after leaving the cold of the east and we walked onto the Plaza where there were kids on skateboards in light jackets and mountains that still had snow. I said to myself, am I hooked, and from that point on I just plotted how I could get out here permanently. At the time, my last child was finishing college, and IBM offered me a retirement package that I could not refuse. I knew that as of June 1989, we would be free to pursue our Santa Fe dream. But I am a person who has to work! I have to have some purpose, and I love it when people depend on me. Since Mrs. Paloheimo had Colorado roots, the ad that Las Golondrinas placed for a Director of Development appeared in the Aspen Bugle, as well as the Wall Street Journal, the New York Times and the L.A. Times. A friend living in Aspen saw the ad and sent it to me. I’m a lifelong art collector with an advertising and promotional background, and this sounded perfect to me, so I applied and got a call back from Rex Arrowsmith, a noted Indian art dealer who was on the search committee. I came out for an interview, and I wasn’t on the property more than 100 yards before I was hooked. It was February, and yet I came home with a sunburn! Probably 120 people had applied for the job, but I was fortunate in that I didn’t need benefits (which Las Golondrinas could not provide at the time but has rectified now) or the higher salary that the other 119 other people apparently required.

Our Lovely Santa Fe Plaza Turns Visitors into Residents!

I had 10 years to get to know Mrs. Paloheimo, and her views still have enormous weight on how we do things at Las Golondrinas. She always said, “Never make it so expensive that poor people can’t afford to come.” and that still motivates us. We have tried to think on a par with the local museum system, but, with Mrs. Paloheimo’s words of advice in mind, we offer free admission to kids under 13, which makes it easier for whole families to visit.

Las Golondrinas is perfect for me, because I love places where I don’t really understand what is going on, places where the face is not the same as the interior. There are still depths and complexity that I find fabulously interesting.

IBM was like a giant ship. If you equated my job there to that of a helmsman, when the captain said “turn left,” I would take the wheel and after several years, the ship would finally be headed off to the left. I could plant lots of seeds, but they didn’t grow for 3 years or so. At Las Golondrinas, the boat turns immediately to the left at the helm’s action, and the results are immediately known. When an ad runs, we see attendance jump the very next weekend. Lowering entrance fees gives an instant response.  It’s a changing palette every day, and I love that. I’m never bored, and I get to meet an awful lot of nice people.

We’re an event-oriented institution, and I like those extravaganzas. When I first arrived, we had only 3 events per year, now we have 11 annually. We were only open 16 days/year when I came, now we have 7 months to show our stuff, thanks to our tenured staff and dedicated volunteers. The combination of short-term gratification and program-driven events, the ability to make change and see that change quickly have a profound impact on the health and vibrancy of the organization – I like that.

What are some of your favorite annual events at Las Golondrinas?

Asking that is like asking me to choose my favorite child! The latest event generally tends to be my favorite. I enjoy the traditional events, helping to make the event meet the demands of the mission statement, which is basically “Don’t turn Las Golondrinas into a Disneyland.” Even the wine festival has to fit. The wine event is memorable, because grape-growing was one of the earliest agricultural crops brought to New Mexico by the Europeans. Harvest fest I love because we make our own wine, and that time of year is richly steeped in traditions. I love the Renaissance Faire because I love to see the happy children.  But if I had to choose one, I really do love Viva Mexico, because I like Mexico and the brightness and the color and the vibrancy of their arts and culture, and it shows so well up here.

Renaissance Faire Fun

Toasting Golondrinas!

Que Viva Mexico!

What events would you develop at Las Golondrinas if you had unlimited funds?

If  money was not limited, I would not put it into more programs, because I don’t feel we are limited in events, we are limited only by our imagination. What I would like to see which we don’t have now is a “Casa de los Ricos.” We are very good at interpreting how poor people lived in the 1700’s and 1800s, but I’d love to have a way to show how wealthy people lived in the 1800s.  Of course, at today’s prices, it would be very easy to spend half a mil to build the kind of impressive house that would demonstrate how the wealthier people lived.

Home on the Range: Not Exactly the High Life!

In terms of infrastructure, I’d also like to have a better stage for performances! I would also love to pull all the animals into a pasture that is more accessible to our visitors. Of course, we would need to add trees for shade for the animals and the visitors!

Is there a particular talent on exhibit at Golondrinas that you wish you possessed? Blacksmith, weaver, farmer? Or do you have a secret talent of which we are unaware? (We already know that you are the consummate Renaissance man!)

I don’t have any talent whatsoever! My talent is capitalzing on the work of others. I worked for a Swiss guy who told me “You have a unique ability to make things happen.” (Mr. B, you should know that your talent certainly serves El Rancho de las Golondrinas very well!) I so admire the skill of people who make things out of wood, the bulto makers, the furniture-makers, and if I could wave the wand, I’d like to have wood-working skills.

Wood-working Skills Were Required!

What books would you recommend to those who wish to learn more about New Mexico history?

Any of the books written by Marc Simmons! If your context is about learning NM history, I consider Marc to be the state’s historian laureate. When I was hired, he sent me a box of his books (signed copies!), which I treausure. Of late, a single book I would recommend is Hampton Sides’ Blood and Thunder, which paints the territorial era of the Southwest with a wide brush – it’s very readable, almost like fiction. Lots of the fiction writers also make our history come vividly alive, Willa Cather, Rudolfo Anaya, and Tony Hillerman. I enjoyed Pam Christie’s Dead Lizards Dance, about the Anza era.  I enthusiastically recommend Nasario Garcia’s books about the folkways of NM, superstitions and brujas, all portrayed in such an engaging way – he’s a wonderful writer, short and to the point, just captivating.

If you could go back in time, what era of New Mexico history would you choose to experience?

That is easy for me, it would be the time of the explorers. I would have loved to come up with Coronado in 1540 or with Onate in 1598, to have had the adventure of coming up and seeing this place for the first time. I also wouldn’t mind being here in the early settlement era, the Anza-Peralta era.

Not All Survive the Adventure

Is there a historical New Mexico figure whom you wish you had met?

I’m drawn to the artists, not the villains, though it would have been fun to have a whiskey with a New Mexico villain! Meeting Maria Martinez would have been wonderful, and I did meet Allan Houser, and some of the Native potters at the ends of their lives. The painters from the 1920’s and 1930’s were colorful characters, goofy and extremely talented. But the Native American leaders most fascinate me, even those identified with other states.  Geronimo was a figure whom I enormously admire, the Plains chieftains like Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse, I would have loved to known Manuelito.  I can’t imagine how horrendous their lives were following the arrival of the white man, when their existence was shattered in the blink of an eye. As leaders, those men had challenges that were absolutely extraordinary, and I would have liked to be a fly on the wall in their pow-wows.

Do you have a spot on the Golondrinas property that you find especially inspiring?

When I first came to Las Golondrinas, I lived on the ranch, since we had bought a house that wasn’t quite finished. I was alone, since my wife had not moved out here yet. There are some houses outside the historic zone on a hill overlooking the ranch, and I lived up there in Torreon House. I used to walk after work at night, and I would walk down all alone to the mill pond area in back of the big mill and along the paths that go around in back, which now run up to the property that the Santa Fe Botanical Garden leases. That area has wonderful water, and the bird life is fabulous. It was really nice to go down around 7pm with a margarita and sit on a rock overlooking the mill pond watching the fish and the long-legged birds with their long bills. It’s still my favorite place.

The Water-Powered Mill

On the actual historic zone of the ranch, my favorite spot is the Sierra Village I think it’s the loveliest little spot on the ranch. Our historic zone is 200 acres, and we have 400 more contiguous acres, but people don’t get to go see that very often. The watery parts, the marsh and the ponds are among the loveliest parts of the ranch.

Sierra Village Gardening

The New Mexico state question: Red or green, and where?

Whichever is hottest, I’m for hot! I don’t have favorite restaurant, but I love to go to Maria’s. One of the advantages of a small town is that you know lots of people, so you may know the owner or the chef. I never used to think that Santa Fe was a culinary mecca, but now I think there are incredibly good places to eat, and depending on your mood, you can certainly find what you are looking for.

Ready to head south from your comfy Santa Fe hotel for a trip to Las Golondrinas? Easy to find, and so worth a visit! Thank you, Mr. Berkenfield, and we’ll see you this summer!

Cooking Up Santa Fe Flavor

Thursday, May 19th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

The Santa Fe School of Cooking is located at 116 West San Francisco Street , Santa Fe, NM  1-800-982-4688 or 505-983-4511 On Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/SantaFeSchoolofCooking?sk=wall

When people think of Santa Fe, frequently the first thing they think of is the food. And with good reason! While both chile and beans may be ingredients in regional food around the world, our New Mexico cuisine is definitely like no other. Once you’ve tasted it, you’re hooked, and the next logical step is learning how to bring it all back home with you. And no one in Santa Fe has done more to help foodies bring the taste of Santa Fe to the home kitchen than Susan Curtis, founder of the Santa Fe School of Cooking and her daughters, Nicole Curtis Ammerman, currently managing the school, and Kristen Curtis Krell, who runs the team-building unit, Cookin’ Up Change. The Authentic Guide took some time this week to speak with Susan and Nicole about the school’s 20 years of sharing the flavor of Santa Fe.

Nicole Curtis Ammerman

Susan Curtis

How did the Santa Fe School of Cooking come into being, and what were the early years like?

Susan Curtis: The birth of the cooking school was the result of a SERIOUS midlife crisis. My last child was going off to college and what was I to do with the rest of my life? The early years were terrifying, but determination carried me through.

Since 1989, the Santa Fe School of Cooking has been whipping up a delicious experience for travelers in search of spicy tastes. Ever wanted to take a relleno and replace that gooey cheese filling with something new? You can learn! Perhaps the sustainable cooking traditions of the Native American culture intrigue you; if so, time in the kitchen with Lois Ellen Frank should be on your agenda. With classes that range from tasty home-made tortillas all the way to a lime-marinated salmon, the schedule has something to offer to both novices and experienced home chefs.

What are some of the most popular recipes the school has prepared through the years?

Nicole Ammerman: Our most popular recipes are the really authentic traditional New Mexican ones, such as our carne adovada, chiles rellenos and our red and green chile sauces. We also do a smoked pork tenderloin with an apple pinon chutney that is fantastic!

MMMMM...Chicken Enchiladas!

Were you surprised that both your daughters have kept the cooking flame (pun intended) burning in their lives?

Susan: No, I would have been surprised if they did not make food an important part of their lives.  I grew up on a ranch where we raised and aged our meats (pork, beef, sheep), raised chickens, had a dairy farm, and planted a huge garden. I knew where food came. As a result, good food has always been important to our family both at home an in our travels.

After you “put on the apron” to lead the school, Nicole, what new ideas excited you the most?

Nicole: I have had a really fantastic time in the last 5 years implementing some fun new programs. I started running the Restaurant Walking Tours five years ago. The concept is that one of our chefs leads a tour on foot through downtown Santa Fe to visit four different restaurants where you meet the chef and taste some of the food that is made especially for our group. Our guests spend the afternoon eating, drinking and meeting some of Santa Fe’s top chefs….how can you beat that? We now have four different routes, so we are working with 16 of Santa Fe’s top restaurants!

Walking - and Eating - Your Way Through Santa Fe

As a veteran of the walking tour, I have to say that this is an excellent way to encounter some of the best Santa Fe restaurants without having to dine at each one individually, especially if your schedule only permits a short Santa Fe getaway. The tour literally gives you fodder for dining choices on your inevitable return visit to Santa Fe. For those with three nights to stay, the Inn’s Taste the City Different package combines the walking tour and a demonstration class into a culinary double-header. If a two-day hop is all you have time for, our Muy Sabrosa Cooking Experience can give you a taste of what’s cooking in Santa Fe.

Can you describe an event at SFSoC that was even more perfect than you hoped? Or one that simply did not go as planned?

Susan: I really can’t think of one event. I am so deeply grateful that the school has been so popular and made so many people enjoy our  local food and culture. On a funny note, one of the most memorable experiences was when somehow salt got placed in the sugar container, and our dessert was made with salt rather than sugar. The reaction by our guests was as you might expect.

A Chile Amor Class at the School

What are the hottest- (again, pun intended) selling items in the market store?

Nicole: We pride ourselves on selling the finest quality chiles and herbs. They are the same ones we use in the classes….so they are great and a lot of interesting varieties. We also really promote local New Mexican farms and products, so we sell lots of posole, blue corn meal and specialty food products. Also, the black clay cookware is so beautiful and functional, and we can’t keep those in stock!

The  Santa Fe School of Cooking has always included supporting local, New Mexican businesses at the core of its mission. From the wild-crafted herbs available at the School’s Market to the sell-out Santa Fe Farmers Market classes, visitors will always find new paths to discovering New Mexico’s unique culinary traditions. The beautiful black cookware is oven to table – no surprise that it is often out of stock!

What adult beverages complement our spicy cuisine?

Susan: I like margaritas and wine that is not too dry with spicy food.

One of the school’s good friends is Dan Murray of Southern Wines and Spirits. For white wine lovers, he recommends a German Riesling such as J.J. Prum or Urban-Ohff or an Oregon Pinot Gris such as Bethel Heights.  Red wine fans should simply seek out a Beaujolais. For those who have a margarita in their sights, Dan suggests Chamucos Blanco for a smoother taste or the Reposado for more tequila flavor and bite.

As a working mother, what’s your go-to menu for the kids after a work-day already spent in the kitchen, so to speak?

Nicole: I will admit that I am not very creative  with my dinners at home, but my kids don’t really like their food “mixed’ with any other ingredients. So lots of roasted chicken, broccoli, rice and pasta. I do really pride myself on how healthy my family eats.  My kids have never had fast food. No matter how tired I am, I always get a healthy dinner on the table for us!

If you could meet one famous chef, living or dead, who would it be why?

Susan: Julia Child, however, I did meet her at an IACP conference. I was speechless I was so intimidated.

If you could eat at one fabulous five-star restaurant, anywhere in the world, which would it be and why?

Nicole: The Thomas Keller restaurant,  French Laundry in Yountville, CA – wine country! I think I must be the only person I know in the food biz that hasn’t eaten there….and I have heard people I know say it was the best meal of their lives!

Private Dining at the French Laundry, Yountville, CA

The New Mexico state question: Red or green, and where?

Nicole: Christmas, of course!  I like the green chile at The Guadalupe Café and the red chile at Atrisco!

Susan: I love both red and green. I ALWAYS stick with red at the Shed and green — there is a little road side take out place in Embudo called Sugars. They have the best green chile burrito that I have ever had.

Both the Shed and the Guadalupe Cafe are withing walking distance of the Inn, and our Front Desk can give easy directions to Atrisco and the village of Embudo, in northern New Mexico.

Red Chile - We Love it!

Green Chile - Hotter than It Looks!

Drooling yet? We are! Food talk always gets the juices going, so if you’re intrigued, check the Inn’s website for more information about either of our two cooking school adventures. And be sure to say “buen provecho” to our friends at the one and only Santa Fe School of Cooking!

Photos from the Santa Fe School of Cooking by Eric Swanson, all rights reserved.

Photo of the French Laundry, courtesy of Thomas Keller Restaurant Group, all rights reserved.

Simply Santa Fe South of Town

Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

The Allan C. Houser Compound is located at 26 Haozous Road, 22  miles south of Santa Fe on Highway 14

“Simplicity appeals to me in a land where the simple things are respected and appreciated – simplicity is a way of life.” Allan Houser

Simplicity IS appealing, especially in our increasingly complicated, task-filled lives. Sometimes we become so habituated to our routine and our surroundings that we neglect to simply visit our neighbors. A good illustration of ignoring what’s in your own backyard? The Allan Houser Compound and Sculpture Garden! Fortunately, my neglectful behavior has recently been rectified by a morning spent exploring this stunning piece of land, enriched in every direction by the sculpture of the late Apache artist, Allan C. Houser, whose hours of painstaking work were distilled into deceptively simple forms.

Mr. Allan C. Houser, Always on the Property

Born as Allan Haozous in 1914, this renowned New Mexican (whose name change came courtesy of the US government) was a member of the Warm Springs band of Chiricahua Apache, originally based in the area near Truth or Consequences, NM. Led by Geronimo himself, the Warm Springs tribe, driven south to Mexico, eventually surrendered to the US Army in 1886 and was speedily transported acroos the country to a prison in Florida as retribution for their recalcitrant refusal to acknowledge superior firepower. The Haozous family itself  is descended from the great Mangas Coloradas, a leader of the eastern Chiricahua in the late 1800′s. The Chiricahua were scattered in locations around the southern states; Allan’s father was among those jailed in Florida, and his mother was born in a prison camp in Alabama where surviving members of the tribe were sent in 1887. The remainder of the Chircahua were sent to Fort Sill, Oklahoma where they remained as captives for what have been 23 very long years. Finally freed in 1914, members of the tribe returned west to join with the Mescalero Apache, for whom a reservation had been carved out of public lands in south-central New Mexico. Allan’s parents, however, were among a small group that elected to remain in Oklahoma, and Allan was their first child born out of captivity. From these roots of struggle and privation arose a talent that continues to inspire generations of artists, Native and non-Native alike.

Warm Springs Apache Man: Allan C. Houser

Although he was raised in an agricultural lifestyle, Mr. Houser became interested in imagery at an early age and soon tried his own hand at creative endeavors. His artistic fire was further fueled by a 1934 notice for an art school located on the campus of the Santa Fe Indian School. Thanks to his talent and the hard-working ethic of his forebears, Allan became the most notable graduate of the Dorothy Dunn School, and by 1939, his artwork was being exhibited around the country.

Mr. Houser was a Painter First!

Mr. Houser and his wife, Anna Marie Gallegos, moved to Los Angeles in 1941 with three young sons, where Allan found work as a ship-builder during the busy years of the Second World War. This was a fortuitous decision, since it was here that he honed 3-dimensional skills that would later serve the sculptural forms of his work, and at the same time, encountered museums rich with the work of European modernists that satisfied his desire for a greater knowledge of art and art history.

Horse: Allan C. Houser

In 1951, the Houser family moved from L.A. to Utah, where Allan taught art at the Inter-Mountain Indian School for the next eleven years, all the while continuing his own work on canvas and in wood. In 1962, his family heritage came full circle with a move to New Mexico, when he agreed to join the Santa Fe faculty of the newly created Institute of American Indian Arts (IAIA), currently the only four-year institution with a fine arts degree dedicated to Native arts. Mr. Houser created a sculpture department from the bottom up and in the process, turned his own artistic focus toward three-dimensional work. By the late 1960′s, exhibitions of his sculpture became a regular occurrence, and both national and international recognition grew along with his output. In 1975, after having influenced several generations of Native artists, Mr. Houser finally had the opportunity to retire and devote himself to his own work, producing close to 1,000 sculptures through the next two decades. His dedicated work ethic never left him, as he continued to create right up until his death at age 80 in 1994.

Wood Ceilings and a Welded Circular Staircase Inside the Houser Home

The compound itself is perched between the villages of Cerrillos and Galisteo on 109 acres of pinon- and juniper-studded land 22 miles south of downtown Santa Fe off Highway 14, the Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway. The property was originally discovered in 1976 by Allan Houser’s son, Phillip Haozous, who invited his father to settle there and who faithfully and respectfully maintains his father’s work and legacy. Phillip, a quiet, modest and self-effacing gentleman, deserves much credit for planting the seed that grew into this beautiful artistic environment, as well as being responsible for the handsome landscape design. Father and son collaborated on the layout and construction of a group of studios and residences, slowly adding the sculpture gardens, as well as dance grounds and outdoor amphitheaters.

The Dance Grounds at the Houser Compound

In addition to the ten acres of sculpture gardens and gallery, in 1995 the compound was expanded to include the Allan Houser Foundry, a traditional lost wax process operation, begun to help the Houser family complete Allan’s lifetime work. By casting works of select artists since 2002, the foundry has grown to be  a welcome presence in the Santa Fe art world.

This is Where It All Happens: The Foundry

Although the Allan Houser Compound is a private facility, owned and maintained by the family and staff, throughout the year, tours can be arranged by appointment only, weather permitting. In addition, the grounds and select buildings are made available for those who want to create a special event that will be both unique and memorable. For more information or to treat yourself to a spot where the spirit of art flows with the breeze through the rocks and trees, call (505) 471-1528; you will leave feeling richer in spirit than when you came.

Diet-Wise Dining in Santa Fe

Tuesday, April 26th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

This week, the Authentic Guide welcomes guest blogger, Billie Frank, of The Santa Fe Traveler, a Santa Fe concierge and travel-planning company. Billie is here with a Santa Fe visitors guide to finding the best places to eat when special diets are in effect. Thanks, Billie!

The Santa Fe Traveler: Billie Frank


Eating away from home can be challenging and never more so than when you have dietary restrictions. There are all sorts of special diets; heart-healthy, vegetarian or vegan, gluten and dairy intolerances, food allergies, weight loss plans, religious dietary restrictions; the list goes on and on. Here are some tips to make travel to Santa Fe, or anywhere, easier for the food-challenged.

  1. Plan ahead: When you have any sort of dietary issues, planning is essential. You can’t just walk into a restaurant and expect them to be able to accommodate special needs unless those needs are really simple (i.e. you need a grilled meat and steamed vegetable). Although more restaurants say they are catering to gluten-free diets on their regular menus, it’s always good to check in advance.  If you’re a vegetarian, and there’s one meat-free dish on the menu and it’s not to your liking, you may be able to get something you’ll enjoy if you talk to the restaurant in advance. Vegans should definitely make plans in advance unless the restaurant is known to be vegetarian and vegan-friendly. Any place can steam a vegetable and put it on pasta or rice, but you can do much better if the place is prepared for your needs.
  2. Research: Speak to someone at the Inn, consult with a travel planner knowledgeable about Santa Fe dining spots for appropriate restaurant recommendations for you or research on the Internet. Once you have recommendations, check the menus and reviews at websites like Open Table and Yelp. Read between the lines. Reviews can be tricky; good ones can be written by the restaurateur or their friends, bad ones by competitors. Open Table, at least, verifies the person writing the review has dined at the establishment they are writing about.
  3. Contact the restaurant(s) in advance: Once you choose the restaurants that interest you, contact them at least a few days ahead to make sure they can accommodate your special diet; not all can or will.
  4. Email or fax them your diet: Once you know that the restaurant can meet your needs, send them your dietary dos and don’ts so that there is no confusion in the kitchen. When you make your reservation, make sure it notes that you have special dietary needs and remind them when you arrive at the restaurant. Getting them your food needs in advance gives the chef time to review them and make sure he has the ingredients he needs and perhaps be more creative.
  5. Breakfast and lunch are easier than dinner: This may not always be the case, depending on your special needs, but if fruit and salads work for you, they are a good fallback. You may want something more elaborate for dinner.
  6. Pick a more upscale place: You can’t expect any kitchen to cope with really complicated special needs. You want a place that has a chef rather than a cook. The better the chef, the better your dinner
  7. Bring your own food: If you have highly specialized dietary needs, sometimes it’s easier to avoid restaurants for breakfast and lunch. If you don’t want to travel with your food, Santa Fe has a number of natural grocery stores and a Trader Joe’s which can make eating on your trip a lot simpler unless you really want the restaurant experiences. The Inn on the Alameda provides an ample breakfast. Let them know in advance what your dietary needs are, and they’ll try their best to provide appropriate foods.

You probably know that if you’re on a special diet, depending on how restrictive it is and what the chef has to work with based on your foods, your experience will differ from that of a person eating the menu choices. The truth is that some ingredients simply make food taste better.

Here’s a list of some Santa Fe restaurants that will accommodate special diets and do so gracefully. Unless noted, contact the restaurant in advance and make arrangements.

315 Restaurant and Wine Bar: Owner Louis Moskow says the restaurant is almost totally gluten-free and is willing to work with other special dietary needs. Chef Ryan Mann will rise to the occasion.

Savory Scallops at 315: Photo by Steve Collins

Coyote Café: Sara Chapman, one of the four owners of the restaurant Mark Miller made famous, says that Executive Chef (and her husband and co-owner) Eric DiStefano can accommodate most diets with advance notice.

Galisteo Bistro: Executive Chef and co-owner Rob Chickering and his wife, co-owner and pastry chef, Marge, are very welcoming to people with special dietary needs. Call Rob and let him know what you need; they’ll graciously accommodate you.

Epazote: Chef/Owner Fernando Olea is one of the most accommodating people in Santa Fe and he loves to feed people. He uses the foods of the New World to create a unique Mexican cuisine, but of course, your dietary restrictions will define the meal.

Las Fuentes: This restaurant has an almost gluten-free menu (just skip the crab cakes). Executive Chef, Chris McLean, will work with other special diets with advance notice. They serve breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Raaga: This new entry to the Santa Fe Dining scene offers Indian food and does a great job of it. The personable owner, Pramod “Paddy” Rawal, will gladly accommodate your dietary needs, and there are vegetarian entrees galore and vegan options, too.

Mouth-watering Mussels in Coconut Curry at Raaga: Photo by Steve Collins

Restaurant Martin: Owner Jennifer Rios, who runs the front of the house here (her husband and restaurant co-owner Martin is the Executive Chef), says no advance notice is necessary for special diets; just bring your food list. She says they are seeing more and more people who cannot eat off the menu. If you have a very unusual diet, contact them in advance to make sure they have the foods you need.

Terra: Executive Chef Charles Dale is the man who allowed me to think it’s possible to dine out on a very restricted diet. He said any chef should be able to deal with special dietary needs with advance notice. He loves the challenge and he delivers. Terra is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The Compound: General Manager, Matias Guillen says that wheat-free, dairy-free and vegetarian diets can be accommodated without notice. If the vegetarian option on the current menu doesn’t speak to you, contact the restaurant, the Beard Award-winning Chef, Mark Kiffen, will create a dish using foods that are more appealing to you. Other diets can be accommodated with advance notice.

Vanessie: This restaurant, popular for its piano bar can accommodate special dietary needs with advanced notice.

If you have special dietary needs, you can travel to Santa Fe with the comfort of knowing that there are restaurants that care and will do their best to create a meal that meets your needs.

As a side note from the Inn’s vegan General Manager, you can also find vegan and gluten-free menus at Annapurna, the Treehouse Cafe and Bakery and Body Cafe of Santa Fe (which has a vegan chocolate ganache that will make you simply swoon with delight!).

It's a Collard Green Burrito at Body Cafe of Santa Fe!

Billie Frank has over twenty-five years experience in sales, marketing and customer service. In 2004, she began a career in the hospitality industry at a small inn outside of Santa Fe, NM. After leaving that position, she worked as a concierge at two Four-Diamond hotels in Santa Fe for over four years. Billie is co-owner of The Santa Fe Traveler, a travel concierge and trip-planning service. She writes a travel blog, Santa Fe Travelers. You can also follow her on Twitter.

Authors note: As a long-time concierge in Santa Fe, the writer may have dined as a guest of some of the restaurants mentioned. Their generous hospitality has not influenced this post in any way.

A Santa Fe Guy, A Santa Fe Gala

Monday, April 11th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

The Lensic Performing Arts Center at 211 West San Francisco Street  celebrates a 10th Anniversary Gala on April 16, 2011

The Lensic We Love

The admiring glances seen every time we attend a performance event at the Lensic Performing Arts Center are a reminder that this jewel in the heart of town is not only still alive and active but is also celebrating its tenth anniversary this year! So often, great local gems slip quietly and inexorably into disrepair before we realize what is being lost. What good fortune for the city of Santa Fe that a dedicated group of local folk put their minds, money and muscle to ensuring a future for this architectural and historical treasure. And as the renovation was about to begin, one of the excellent decisions that ensued was the hiring of Robert Martin as the Director of the Lensic.

Bob Martin, Executive Director of the Lensic Performing Arts Center

With this gala year and the upcoming celebration, we asked Bob Martin for a bit of his time to help our guests become acquainted with all that the Lensic brings to the City Different. Despite the many demands involved in creating this anniversary party, Bob graciously complied with the questions we posed.

  • How long have you been with the Lensic, and how did you find your way there?

I have been at the Lensic 11 years. I came two months before the renovation begin in April 2000. Sue Weil, who I knew in Los Angeles, connected me up with Merrill Brockway who was helping Nancy Zeckendorf find a director.

For those who need more history on the contributions of Ms. Zeckendorf et al, there’s more about the history of the Lensic in this earlier post http://innonthealameda.com/the-authentic-guide-to-santa-fe/2011/01/santa-fe-lucky-to-have-the-lensic/

  • In lieu of the usual “Top Ten” list, can you please name some favorite events performed at the Lensic on your watch?

The Los Alamos Project reading; The Laramie Project:10 Years Later; Sonny Rollins at the New Mexico Jazz Festival;  Terry Allen, David Byrne and Emmylou Harris in a benefit concert for Landmine Free World; Eddie Izzard; and Children of Uganda.

For a city of less than 100K residents, this is an impressive and varied list of visiting artists, which should prove enticing for those who have not yet enjoyed a concert, reading or dance performance at the Lensic!

Eddie Izzard, Works in Progress

  • Can you name a community outreach event at the Lensic that has been personally meaningful for you?

That’s hard to pick. I really believe in the importance of all of them.

Guess that this question was akin to asking a parent to name a favorite child; sorry, Bob!

  • What one performer have you always wanted to see at the Lensic, but who has eluded you?

Bob Dylan

Mr. Martin should not feel alone; the movie that tells a similar elusive tale is entitled I’m Not There http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0368794/

  • What performer, living or deceased, would you like to meet and why?

Zero Mostel and Bert Lahr, because I just thought of them.

Zero Mostel as The Fiddler on the Roof

The One and Only Bert Lahr

  • Is there a staff member at the Lensic whose job you secretly envy?

Not really.

Job satisfaction is a great quality in a community leader!

  • What would you like to see happen for the Lensic over the next ten years?

To maintain excellence in programming, to continue taking chances and commitment to community. To be recognized nationally as a model for performing arts centers.

Under Bob Martin’s stewardship, the Lensic is definitely on its way towards these goals, especially with the launch of its $3 Million Fund the Future Campaign to ensure the legacy of performance, education and community events for generations to come.

  • As befits all New Mexicans, the state question, red or green? And where?

Green at Tia Sophias.

Everyone has a Favorite Place - and Color - for Chile!

The 10th Anniversary Gala Celebration commemorating the creation of the nonprofit Lensic Performing Arts Center, along with the 80th birthday of the historic Lensic Theater itself, begins on Saturday, April 16 at 5pm. A champagne reception taking place in the Lensic Lobby will precede the performance. This memorable occasion will also honor Santa Feans Nancy and Bill Zeckendorf, who spearheaded the effort to create the performing arts center that has become so integral to the arts community of Santa Fe. Performances by members of the Santa Fe Concert Association, Santa Fe Pro Musica and Santa Fe Symphony will be enhanced when the directors of each group conduct pieces played by this specially organized “Lensic Ensemble.” The Gala will also feature students from the Santa Fe Indian School and Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, and a film retrospective of the Lensic and its history will be screened.

We extend our sincere thanks to Bob Martin, for sharing some of his time and thoughts with us and for his energy and devotion to ensuring that the Lensic Performing Arts Center endures as a vital part of the cultural life of our city!

If you would like to be part of  this important Santa Fe celebration, please call the Lensic Box Office at 505-988-1234 or visit their website at http://www.lensic.org/content/lensic_anniversary.

Lensic Center photos courtesy of the Lensic; all rights reserved.

Santa Fe Dance goes East…Far East!

Thursday, April 7th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

Nrityagram Dance Ensemble performs at the Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 West San Francisco St.  Santa Fe NM at 7:0pm on Friday, April 8, 2011 Tickets: http://www.ticketssantafe.org/tsf

We’re lucky here in Santa Fe…lucky that so many people want to come here and that so many talented people are happy to perform here! Lucky too, that we have our excellent Lensic Performing Arts Center (soon to celebrate a 10th anniversary!) providing a venue that always sets a beautifully memorable backdrop for the unusual arts that wend their way to the City Different.

The Stunning Lensic Performing Arts Center

One of those unusual events happens this week, and we have only one chance to see it. The Nrityagram Dance Ensemble of Southern India will be appearing at the Lensic on Friday night, April 8, 2011 for a single performance. In conjunction with the Lensic, the generous minds behind the Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, who celebrate dance in all its global permutations, have brought this internationally acclaimed company and the entrancing choreography of Surpa Sen to help the West dream of the East.

The Captivating Rhythms of the East come to Santa Fe

Founded by Protima Gauri (whose life was tragically cut short in 1998), Nrityagram is the realization of her “dream of building a community of dancers in a forsaken place amidst nature. A place where nothing exists, except dance. A place where you breathe, eat, sleep, dream, talk, imagine – dance. A place where all the five senses can be refined to perfection. A place where dancers drop negative qualities such as jealousy, small-mindedness, greed and malice to embrace their colleagues as sisters and support each other in their journey towards becoming dancers of merit.” A worthy goal, indeed!

The dancers of the company follow a lifestyle that centers on the age-old Gurukul tradition, an ancient method that helps students repay their training through care for their Guru. This encompasses a broad array of duties, from cultivating and cooking to performing dance recitals to earn living expenses. At Nrityagram, the institution itself is the Guru, a protector which offers knowledge and experience to trainees inspired by its goals. Along with naturally intensive dance training, students study Indian literature, mythology and poetry, as well as  music and the history of dance and dance theory. Their classes also include Sanskrit, aesthetics, philosophy and spiritual thought, and workshops offered in martial arts, yoga, and mime help to improve stance and energy. Meditation practice inculcates an awareness of the inter-relatedness of the arts and helps to focus the many-faceted training into creating a dancer who is ready to go out into the world and fully represent these traditions.

This is a performance sure to transport dance-lovers to magical and spiritual heights through the sensuous flow of Odissi, one of the oldest of India’s classical dance forms. Ancient wisdom, sacred ritual, and divine transformation are all interpreted through a magnetic mixture of music and movement. Set to an original score for a stunning ensemble of female dancers, whose exceptional synchronicity, compelling physicality and emotional honesty will fill the stage and the soul, this is a night out that shouldn’t be missed!

Photos courtesy of the Lensic Performing Arts Center and Aspen Santa Fe Ballet; all rights reserved.

Santa Fe Earth Hour

Friday, March 25th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

What are YOU doing for Earth Hour? A global grass-roots movement begun in 2007 that encourages consumers large and small around the world to join in positive environmental action, Earth Hour can help you show your commitment to Planet Earth by merely switching off your lights for one designated hour.

Taking place on Saturday, March 26, 2011, from 8:30-9:30pm local time, this year’s global effort plans to show that the actions of people, businesses and governments around the world can reduce the environmental impact that they, by necessity, help to create. By establishing a simple protocol and encouraging others to join this inter-connected community, Earth Hour participants can engage in dialogue and resource-sharing that will hopefully aid in the search for real-life solutions to the environmental challenges we share as Citizens of Planet Earth.

The Planet Earth by Nick Greene

The highlight of Earth Hour 2011 will be seen when many of the world’s most iconic landmarks go dark for one designated hour, with millions of people, transcending race, creed, age, culture and geography, simply by switching off lights in unison as a global celebration to protect the one thing that unites us all, our planet! Just use your imagination to see a wave of darkness circling the globe as the clock strikes 8:30pm on each time meridian.

Here in Santa Fe, already known for peace, quiet and environmental awareness, the Inn on the Alameda will help celebrate Earth Hour locally by encouraging  guests to leave guest room lights darkened or dimmed, particularly during the designated Earth Hour time of 8:30-9:30pm MST. Safety requirements naturally prevent us from fully darkening the property, but during Earth Hour, we will be dimming non-essential lighting to show our support for this global initiative.  The Inn’s commitment to environmental awareness extends to our sponsorship of the Santa Fe River through the Santa Fe Watershed Association Adopt-a-River initiative. In addition, we reuse and recycle all in-house paper forms, as well as aluminum and newsprint, and our gardens are xeriscaped in conjunction with the water-conservation methods necessary for high desert dwellers.

Lower the light like the sun does!

To acknowledge our debt to the planet that hosts us so generously, consider a candle-lit hour of pleasant conversation at the dinner table, free of electric lights, computer screens and televisions…or turn out the house lights and take a walk in the clement spring evening weather….whatever you do, it will only take one hour to say thanks to our Mother Earth!

More Local Santa Fe Dance

Saturday, March 19th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

Invaders of the Heart: Revelation is performed on Saturday, March 19, 2011 at 7pm at the James A Little Theatre, located on Cerrillos Raod Santa fe at the New Mexico School for the Deaf

Just when you think you know your own town well, an exciting surprise comes your way! Last night,  it was the gift that Pomegranate Studios brought to the stage of the James A. Little Theatre in their production Invaders of the Heart 2011: Revelation.  Pure enjoyment!

Mesmerizing Movement by Myra Krien

I had known of Pomegranate’s existence and had heard the pulsing beats emanating from the studio at various times, but had not yet made the effort to discover more. It’s a sad reality that local dance companies often languish in obscurity, but don’t be fooled, they are out there working hard, and this performance proved what dedication, talent and energy can do, even when long-time residents like me don’t even know what they are up to.  24 dancers, 90 costumes, and 10 enormous ostrich feather fans, as well as veil fans, 3 parasols, a bird, and a lion all showed up onstage over the course of almost two hours of high-energy and mesmerizing dance. The range of Middle Eastern styles encompassed a Tribal section, an Oriental/Egyptian section, a Bellydance-Tango Fusion section, an Asian Fusion section, a Turkish/Armenian section, and even a terrifically entertaining solo by insirational founder, Myra Krien. An appearance by guest stars, Unmata, one of the hottest tribal style belly-dance acts, showed off their highly athletic chops, as they gave a precious a slot of their world tour to hit the stage with this local company.

Shake it, Sister!

The broad range of musical selections was by turns hypnotic and wildly energetic, and the audience responded in kind. It is amazing to think that all, and I mean all, of the costumes were created by the company, and it’s no surprise that a retail line of clothing, Persephone, has resulted from the necessity of an in-house costume shop. And the fact that the choreography is also in-house makes one wonder when Myra Krien has time to sleep! Especially when you add in the existence of the SEEDs program for girls, an inspirational entity in itself! Pomegranate SEEDs, which stand for Self-esteem, Empowerment and Education through Dance, is an after-school program, established by Founder/Director Krien in 2001 to present to youth the finest instruction in Middle Eastern Arts along with programming that promotes self-discovery and self-actualization, provides mentorship at a very high level and prepares young women for Independence. Judging from the number of lovely young women onstage as well as in the audience, it seems like its mission, to mentor young women through dance in order to create healthy and strong individuals who are socially and fiscally responsible to themselves and their community, is being accomplished.

Dedication = Dramatic Dance

Can you tell I was really impressed? Days are longer now, and nights are warmer, so it’s easy to head for the James A. Little Theatre tonight, Saturday, March 19 at 7pm for one more chance to see this electric stage presentation. You won’t regret it…and you’ll know that your financial support will help keep this vital program alive in the City Different!

Photos courtesy of Pomegranate Studios, all rights reserved

Santa Fe Dance puts Spring into Motion

Thursday, March 10th, 2011 by Santa Fe Red

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet appears on Friday, March 11 and Saturday March 12 at 7:30pm in the Lensic Performing Arts center on 211 West San Francisco Street in Santa Fe, NM

Tickets at http://www.ticketssantafe.org/tsf

Santa Fe Loves Dance!

We all know that our Santa Fe Opera is heralded far and wide for the stunning summer performance season that rolls around each year in July. But did you know that Santa Fe also has a ballet troupe that gets better and better year by year?

Jiri Kylian's Stamping Ground: Aspen Santa Fe Ballet Photo by Rosalie O'Connor

In conjunction with Aspen, CO, another small town with big cultural aspirations, Aspen Santa Be Ballet has been bringing terrific dance to the City Different via a series of performances throughout the year.  Now well into its second decade, ASFB was founded in 1990 by Aspen resident, Bebe Schweppe, eventually evolving into a nationally-recognized ballet company and dance academy dedicated to developing local talent in the Southwest. The School of Aspen Santa Fe Ballet, with locations  in both Aspen, CO and Santa Fe, NM, currently provides classes in ballet, tap, and jazz for over 360 students, who might otherwise have to travel to another city for dance education at this level of excellence.  Under the able stewardship of Executive Director, Jean-Phillipe Malaty, and Artistic Director, Tom Mossbrucker, the company has become  a leader in terms of repertoire. ASFB’s mission of acquiring and commissioning work from top choreographers has been a distinct treat for dance lovers, and the performance schedule takes the company far and wide to showcase the talents of their hard-working troupe. And as repetitive as it must seem, they exhibit no reluctance about presenting classics like The Nutcracker, which enhances the Santa Fe holiday season each winter.

Aspen Santa Fe Ballet's Holiday Magic

Culturally-focused community outreach is also part of the ASFB standard, with their popular Mexican folklore program for young dancers, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet Folklórico, offered to interested students in both school locations. In addition, ASFB welomes other illustrious dance companies to perform in Santa Fe. In recent years, the Joffrey Ballet of Chicago, Paul Taylor Dance Company, MOMIX, Alvin Ailey Dance, Pilobolus and the hilarious farceurs, Les Ballets Trockadero, have all made the trek to the Lensic Performing Arts Center. On April 8, ASFB brings the Nrityagram Dance Ensemble of India for what will surely be a spellbinding evening of eastern dance; can’t wait for that one!

Coming April 8, 2011! Nrityagram Dance Ensemble

Spring is a season for new beginnings, and this weekend, on March 11 and 12, in celebration of their 15th anniversary season, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet will debut two new ballets from choreographers Jiri Kylian and Nicolo Fonte in what should be a pair of a vibrant performances.  The company will present Kylian’s Stamping Ground, and a newly commissioned dance by Fonte also makes its Santa Fe premiere. Cayetano Soto‘s striking Uneven, with music by Maya Beiser, rounds out the program.  These are performances that dance lovers should not be miss, as the technical and expressionistic talents of the ASFB dancers seem to expand exponentially with each return engagement in Santa Fe. The company can be commended for its consistent commitment to commissioning and performing unusual work by both well-known and up-and-coming choreographers. This is an exemplary and even daring goal, in an economic climate that sometimes rewards conservative choices with higher ticket sales.

Cayetano Soto's Uneven: Aspen Santa Fe Ballet Photo by Rosalie O'Connor

If you like your music accompanied by supple movement, head for the Lensic this weekend, where your ticket purchase will buy you an evening of enjoyment and at the same time, will help keep this small and gutsy company safely grounded in the Southwest.

And if Santa Fe travel plans don’t materialize until the following weekend, dance lovers need not despair! Santa Fe’s own belly-dancing troupe, ably led by Myra Krien of Pomegranate Studios will present Invaders of the Heart 2011: Revelation at the James A. Little Theatre on Friday and Saturday, March 18 and 19 at 7pm. 24 dancers, 90 costumes, 10 enormous ostrich feather fans, 3 parasols, a bird, a lion, and more….now THAT sounds like fun, doesn’t it?

Invaders of the Heart: When It's GOOD to Have a Sinuous Stomach!

Randall Davey Audubon Center

Sunday, February 27th, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The new sign welcoming you to the Sanctuary

Sometimes you just need a quick getaway from town, a breath of fresh air, a place to stretch your legs without too many people around, and maybe a spot just to sit and be quiet for awhile. We have the perfect destination for you: The Randall Davey Audubon Center, just a couple of miles from the Inn on the Alameda, with good parking at either the Center itself, or just off Upper Canyon Road, at the Santa Fe River Canyon Nature Preserve. Both are free.

It’s a lovely place to have a short hike:

A pleasant walk on a winter afternoon. That's Picacho Peak above.

There are a variety of paths in the Nature Preserve south of the Center, with interpretive signs here and there:

An interpretive sign near the classroom and nature store

The “serious” birders are quick to post their sightings:

Catch of the day

A friend and I love to stop by the River Preserve to see what the beavers have been up to. Lately they’ve been rearranging their dams – here’s the newest one:

The latest engineering project on the Santa Fe River

“Busy as a beaver” doesn’t begin to describe these creatures. It’s amazing what they can accomplish:

An evening's nosh

And down, ready for stripping and hauling. That's a big tree!

There are already plenty of birds to see, even ‘tho it’s still February, and more are no doubt on the way. The robins are back – that’s always encouraging – and we also spotted mallards on the beaver ponds, scrub jays, white-breasted nutchatches, pine siskins, juncos, two kinds of towhees, and a pair of red-tailed hawks circling overhead, keeping everyone in line. The usual menagerie of reptiles is absent, since it’s still winter, so for those of you averse to slithery things, this is a great time for a walk.

Getting There:

From the Inn on the Alameda, turn east on Alameda Street (toward the mountains) and follow it along the tree-lined Santa Fe River until it makes a sharp right turn. At the stop sign at the intersection with Upper Canyon Road, turn left and enjoy a slow drive through a very picturesque section of Old Santa Fe until the road makes an abrupt left turn. Here you have a couple of choices: you can turn left here and then immediately right into the parking area for the Nature Conservancy’s Santa Fe River Preserve, or you can continue straight ahead, along a dirt road, about half a mile to the paved parking area at the Randall Davey Audubon Center itself. There’s a great nature store here, and it’s the meeting place for the Saturday morning bird walks. Check their website for the calendar of events.

The old Randall Davey House seen from inside the Preserve

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