Page Top

The Authentic Guide to Santa Fe

Archive for the ‘Santa Fe Day Hikes’ Category

Winter Adventures in Santa Fe

Tuesday, February 7th, 2012 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Fellow travelers above Aspen Vista

The mountains above Santa Fe have been getting just about as much snow as anyplace in the Rockies this winter, and if you’re in the mood for a winter adventure, New Mexico is the place to come! Ski Santa Fe is having a stellar season:

The top of the hike, at the Quad Lift of Ski Santa Fe

With yet another coating of fresh powder last Friday – and soft flurries all weekend – I decided to get out the snowshoes and make a trek up the mountain and see things for myself. I chose Aspen Vista as my starting point, and at the spur of the moment decided to take a route straight up the mountain, where a path had been broken in the fresh snow, leading in an inviting way through the spruce and aspen:

Into the woods

The great thing about snowshoeing is, first, you can wander through the forest almost any way you please, far above the tangle of fallen timber and other obstacles on the forest floor, and second, you have the traction to ascend steeper slopes without switchbacking along a trail. (Of course, you have to have the stamina to ascend – and I was beginning to have some second thoughts around 11,000 feet altitude!)

It’s always worth it. I passed through hypnotic groves of aspen with violet shadows on the snow:

Aspen and light

I came upon a completely unexpected meadow and had a chat with some fellow adventurers and their dog:

The unexpected meadow. A good place to break out the thermos!

Santa Feans have an obsession with spiral shapes – I don’t know how many stone spiral mazes I’ve come across hiking in our mountains – and there was a veritable Stonehenge of a spiral, built of snow, at the top of the meadow:

Snow circles

Persistence paid off with marvelous views into Big Tesuque and its cloud-shrouded ridge:

The view south into Big Tesuque at the top of my climb

The path ended at the boundaries of Ski Santa Fe near the Quad Lift, with many happy skiers:

Ski Santa Fe - the Quad lift and slopes beyond

After a little rest, it was time to head back down the mountain (at a far faster clip!)

The path back down the mountain, through the spruce

And then home, for a well-earned rest.

It looks like conditions are going to be favorable all winter here in Santa Fe, so make some plans to get out in the snow while you’re here. Unlike skis or snowboards and their accessories, snowshoes are inexpensive to rent, and you can pick up a pair or two right on your way up the mountain from town, at Cottam’s, in Hyde State Park, about half way up to the snowy places.

Even if you choose not to get on the path less traveled, don’t rule out a short hike along some of our high country trails while you’re here in the winter. A day or two after a snow, many trails, like Aspen Vista are compacted sufficiently for an enjoyable walk in regular hiking shoes.

This could be you!

Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument

Sunday, January 29th, 2012 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The classic view: Seven Dwarfs Overlook

One of the most remarkable hikes you can make in the entire American Southwest is all of about 40 minutes drive southwest of Santa Fe, in one of our newest National Monuments, Kasha-Katuwe. This phrase means “white cliffs” in the Keresan language spoken by Cochiti Pueblo, which you will drive through on your way over to the Monument. For those of us around here it’s always been known as “Tent Rocks” –  for obvious reasons, as you can see from the photograph above. It’s an amazing geological window into an apron of white volcanic tuff ejected from one of the older volcanic centers in the Jemez Mountains, and its display of bizarre “hoodoos”, or earth pillars, is about as perfect as any on the planet.

The drive into Tent Rocks is well marked now, and since its induction into the Federal Park System, the road from Cochiti to the parking area has been completely paved. There is an entrance station where a $5 charge per vehicle will be taken, and once you get to the  parking area, you’ll find plenty of paved spaces, some shelters, an interpretive kiosk, and a restroom. There are two trails in the park, one short loop that takes you to a small habitation carved into the soft tuff, similar to ones in Bandelier National Monument, and another, a little over a mile and a half long, that takes your into a beautiful slot canyon and then out again, and then up a mesa for some of the most expansive views in the Southwest.

The view as you start your walk

After crunching across a short distance of soft pumice underlying the typical juniper biota of this part of New Mexico, the trail will veer into a much more enclosed canyon:

Entering the canyon

There’s an unusual assemblage of vegetation here, highlighted by the white tuff. A few Ponderosa Pines thrive by virtue of water channeled by the canyon. An almost endemic species of manzanita grows here and nowhere else I’ve seen in the region. At the appropriate time of year, in May, you’ll see cholla cactuses blooming in every shade of magenta, prickly pear in festive yellow, with their rose-like extravagance of stamens, clusters of hedgehog cactus in scarlet bouquets, and sidebells penstemon flowering on short spikes growing out of impossibly arid slopes.

Soon the canyon literally closes over your head:

The Slot Canyon

It is extremely narrow in places and you might find yourself walking sideways. This is NOT a place to be caught during a summer thunderstorm. On this visit, a layer of icy snow, covered in wind-blown grit, actually smoothed the walk through this confined place.

Overhanging walls of volcanic tuff

This part of the walk has an almost cave-like feel. Eventually the slot opens again into a light-drenched Shangri-La of desert landforms:

A pyramid of tuff

Everywhere you turn there seems to be a photographic opportunity. You’ll start channeling your inner Ansel Adams before you know it:

A spire of tuff

The trail turns again, shortly, and you’ll begin your ascent onto the mesa that crown the Monument:

Ascending the mesa

In summer you’ll be reaching for your water bottle at this point. In winter, you’ll probably be wishing you’d put on crampons; this part of the hike faces north and there are some treacherous places, slippery with ice.

Once on top, however, the views are unsurpassed:

This could be you!

Every mountain range in Northern New Mexico is on display, in panoramic vistas.

Looking back toward Santa Fe

Looking into the Jemez Mountains, with the canyon below.

If you have any interest in geology, Kasha-Katuwe is an imperative stop. Almost every way that volcanic pyroclastics can be deposited is displayed here, from air falls of tephra, to pyroclastic flows, to volcaniclastic aprons laid down by floods. If you’re interested in landforms, well, the place speaks for itself. Be sure and get a copy of the High Desert Field Guides for Kasha-Katuwe before you go!

Whatever you do, bring the camera:

Light

Soaring on Raven’s Ridge

Thursday, November 24th, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

A Gray Jay enjoying the view from Raven's Ridge

The other weekend I just had to get out for some exercise, and since my thoughts lately have been occupied planning some hikes up in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado next summer, I decided to head up to Ski Santa Fe and get a good workout on Raven’s Ridge, the spur of the Santa Fe Range that divides the Tesuque watershed from the headwaters of Nambe Creek, and which makes up the northern boundary of the Aspen Basin, which we enjoy seeing from Santa Fe nearly every day.

The mountains have been getting light snows most weeks lately, but typically the high country trails are firmly packed this early in the season, and snow shoes aren’t necessary. So I put on my layers, made a thermos of my favorite tea – Formosa Oolong No. 8 from Adagio Teas,  grabbed a breakfast burrito from La Montanita Co-op, and headed up the mountain.

On a clear and sunny day the normally sombre spruce forests above 10,000 feet in elevation literally glow with an inner light, fragrant and invigorating, putting one in mind of Christmas and the holidays.

Looking up into towering Englemann Spruce on the Winsor Trail

There simply isn’t anything nicer than walking through these Snow Forests on a calm and sunny late morning, taking in the pure air and radiant light.

Packed snow on the Winsor Trail above Ski Santa Fe

The section of the Winsor Trail from the parking area of Ski Santa Fe up to the saddle on Raven’s Ridge is always a bit of a test – sort of the dues you have to pay to gain entrance to the Nambe Creek watershed and the peaks beyond. You gain over 800 feet in less than a mile, and since the trailhead is already at 10,200 feet elevation, you generally have to make some stops to catch your breath. I was huffing and puffing like a steam locomotive on the Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad, myself.

Soon enough the trail levels out and you reach the saddle on the flank of Aspen Peak which marks the boundary of the vast and beautiful Pecos Wilderness.

The new sign at the entrance to the Pecos Wilderness along the Winsor Trail

It’s at this gateway that you leave the Winsor Trail and turn right to follow the fence line along an informal trail that follows Raven’s Ridge through the trees. The climb is a little gentler than the switchbacks of the Winsor Trail, but there are a few more places where you’ll have to pause for breath. And there are no views to speak of – until you reach 11,200 feet and the tie-off point of the fence:

The headwaters of Nambe Creek from Raven's Ridge

Perched on ancient gneiss above the glacial canyon that holds Nambe Lake, you’ll feeling like you’re soaring in a glorious Rocky Mountain High. To your right is Lake Peak, a mountain horn that carries Ski Santa Fe on its west flank, and the headwaters of the Santa Fe River on its south:

Lake Peak

By the way, if you are in the mood for some real adventure, my friend Mar’ Himmerich of Celestial Guides (celestialguides@yahoo.com) will be happy to take you skiing up there.

To your left is the bold massif of Santa Fe Baldy, the highest peak near Santa Fe:

Santa Fe Baldy 12,622 feet high

Below you is a vertiginous drop with more diagonals and verticals than a vintage Italian travel poster:

Winter light

It’s a perfect place to stop for a well deserved break. And as often happens up here in the alpine realm, with a soft fluttering, a flash of grey, and maybe a gentle whistle, you might have guests for tea:

Care to share that Clif Bar with me?

This is the Grey Jay, or Whiskey-Jack, the notorious camp robber who will eat out of your hand (or snatch food from it while you’re not looking). A pair of these birds kept an eye on me the entire time I had my snack.

After a blissful time of taking in the view and enjoying the sun on my face, I grabbed my daypack and headed back down the trail. As I approached the parking area, I could see the that the slopes of Ski Santa Fe are nearly ready for opening:

Ski Santa Fe, seen through spruce and aspen along the Winsor Trail

Soon enough I was back in my car and cruising down NM 475 back to Santa Fe for a rendezvous with Starbucks. It was a Good Day. Come out and see us this winter, and have a good day of your own!

Somebody loves you in Santa Fe!

November Snow

Sunday, November 13th, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The Forest Service sign at Aspen Vista, changed out for winter

Nearly ever year, sometime around the end of October, Santa Fe gets its first little snowfall to let us know that winter is on its way. This year the reminder came a little earlier, the weekend before Halloween, and the more turbulent conditions up in the mountains put a quick end to the colorful aspen leaves. We had a week’s respite of wonderful weather here in town, but by last weekend another storm swept through, and as far as the highlands are concerned, winter is officially here.

Once the sun came back out I had a drive and a short walk along the Aspen Vista Trail, about a 25 minute drive from downtown Santa Fe. The county is good about keeping the road clear:

The road to Ski Santa Fe, at the Aspen Vista Trailhead

I had a short walk, in dazzling light, along with a few other fellow travelers:

This could be you!

The vivid blue of the alpine sky never fails to seduce me:

Aspen stretching toward the light

Ski Santa Fe is only a few more minutes drive from here, and at this rate there should be some skiing by Thanksgiving. Many of their lifts reach up the Tesuque Peak, which was liberally frosted by the storm:

Tesuque Peak above Santa Fe

Ski Taos is even further along. Taos is beautiful in the winter, and it makes a great day trip from Santa Fe when you’re making your stay with us:

Sacred Taos Mountain, wreathed in clouds, shining over Taos

So start sorting though your warm fleeces and limbering up your knees for a glorious winter vacation in the Southern Rockies! We’ll keep your home base snug and warm for you:

Home at the Inn on the Alameda

Little things

Sunday, October 30th, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Brightly colored autumn forbs on the forest floor

Most of the leaves have come down from the aspen in the mountains above Santa Fe, and the highest peaks are already shining with the first snows of the season. The glorious light of late fall streams over the forests now, warm and raked, dappling the trails with shadows and spotlighting the minor characters of the forest floor for a fleeting moment of fame. Often overlooked by view-seekers on summer hikes, or health-enthusiasts on their mountain bikes, the little things of the forest come into their own this time of year.

I had a meditative walk on the Chamisa Trail not far from town last Sunday and I gave these small players my attention for the afternoon.

Shadows along the Chamisa Trail

Light sifting through the canopy picked out late season flowers here and there:

Harebells defying the frost

A patch of columbine taking in the afternoon rays

A choir of asters looking up from the leaf litter

The dour oaks throw off their usual reticence this time of year, and give a grudging blush of color:

Gambel oak at trail's edge

Aspen leaves shine on the ground like golden coins:

Leaves on stone

Even the cool conifers take on a warmer hue:

A spray of Ponderosa needles

So go have a walk this afternoon and keep your eye out for those little things. It’s their time to shine!

Autumn light

Upper Tesuque Creek

Monday, August 22nd, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The view down the Tesuque Creek watershed, toward Santa Fe

It’s been wonderful being able to hike again in the mountains above Santa Fe, and maybe even more wonderful that the summer rains have finally come through for us. The Sangre de Cristo Mountains east and north of town have gotten soaking rains most afternoons, lately, some of them jazzed up with spectacular pyrotechnics. The grateful forests are swollen and vibrantly green with the showers, and grateful hikers are enjoying the newly opened trails.

The last couple of weekends I’ve made some hikes in the Rio Tesuque watershed. Many of the Forest Service Trails near town traverse this drainage, or depart from it: the Chamisa Trail, much of the lower Winsor Trail, Borrego, Bear Wallow, Big Tesuque, and all of Aspen Vista. I’ve been parking at the Big Tesuque Campground lately, and walking up that part of the trail that heads east to join Aspen Vista, and beyond, up to the “Butterfly Meadow” and, yesterday, all the way up to Tesuque Peak.

Even a short walk will bring you intimate rewards. Late summer flowers are in bloom along the creek:

Asters in a meadow along Tesuque Creek

Butterflies abound.

A Variegated Fritillary enjoying a thistle

There are places to sit and listen to the falling water that have all the serenity of a Japanese garden:

Sprays of grass along Tesuque Creek

More strenuous efforts to climb higher will bring the usual rewards:

A rustic bench thoughtfully constructed on Tesuque Ridge

Views from these elevations often show intriguing meadows that you rarely see from the lower trails, even if they happen to pass nearby. Here’s a little Shangri La of a meadow on the flank of Aspen Peak that is isolated from any path:

A meadow on the flank of Aspen Peak, above Ski Santa Fe

You might have noticed that the atmosphere in these photos is completely sodden with moisture, very typical of August in the Southern Rockies. Although I was spared any rain, much later in the afternoon this humidity discharged itself in a stupendous cloudburst over Santa Fe, flooding the streets and washing away the lingering remnants of this year’s Indian Market.

At the very crest of Tesuque Peak the land drops abruptly away into a cirque that cradles Santa Fe Lake and the headwaters of the Santa Fe River. Look at the spectacular view:

In the clouds on Tesuque Peak

Trust me. For a few amazing moments the clouds parted and this scene took on a Technicolor clarity that had to be seen to be believed. And then it was gone, back into the void.  The Donovan lyrics sprang to mind: “First there is a mountain, then there is no mountain, then there is”. I realize these lines refer to a deeper spiritual reality – consult the Vajracchedika Prajnaparamita Sutra for details – but it was nice to see things manifest in sunlight and stone.

So come see us. The mountains may not be eternal, but they’ll be here for you.

Randall Davey Audubon Center

Sunday, February 27th, 2011 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The new sign welcoming you to the Sanctuary

Sometimes you just need a quick getaway from town, a breath of fresh air, a place to stretch your legs without too many people around, and maybe a spot just to sit and be quiet for awhile. We have the perfect destination for you: The Randall Davey Audubon Center, just a couple of miles from the Inn on the Alameda, with good parking at either the Center itself, or just off Upper Canyon Road, at the Santa Fe River Canyon Nature Preserve. Both are free.

It’s a lovely place to have a short hike:

A pleasant walk on a winter afternoon. That's Picacho Peak above.

There are a variety of paths in the Nature Preserve south of the Center, with interpretive signs here and there:

An interpretive sign near the classroom and nature store

The “serious” birders are quick to post their sightings:

Catch of the day

A friend and I love to stop by the River Preserve to see what the beavers have been up to. Lately they’ve been rearranging their dams – here’s the newest one:

The latest engineering project on the Santa Fe River

“Busy as a beaver” doesn’t begin to describe these creatures. It’s amazing what they can accomplish:

An evening's nosh

And down, ready for stripping and hauling. That's a big tree!

There are already plenty of birds to see, even ‘tho it’s still February, and more are no doubt on the way. The robins are back – that’s always encouraging – and we also spotted mallards on the beaver ponds, scrub jays, white-breasted nutchatches, pine siskins, juncos, two kinds of towhees, and a pair of red-tailed hawks circling overhead, keeping everyone in line. The usual menagerie of reptiles is absent, since it’s still winter, so for those of you averse to slithery things, this is a great time for a walk.

Getting There:

From the Inn on the Alameda, turn east on Alameda Street (toward the mountains) and follow it along the tree-lined Santa Fe River until it makes a sharp right turn. At the stop sign at the intersection with Upper Canyon Road, turn left and enjoy a slow drive through a very picturesque section of Old Santa Fe until the road makes an abrupt left turn. Here you have a couple of choices: you can turn left here and then immediately right into the parking area for the Nature Conservancy’s Santa Fe River Preserve, or you can continue straight ahead, along a dirt road, about half a mile to the paved parking area at the Randall Davey Audubon Center itself. There’s a great nature store here, and it’s the meeting place for the Saturday morning bird walks. Check their website for the calendar of events.

The old Randall Davey House seen from inside the Preserve

Cloud-hidden, Whereabouts unknown

Sunday, December 19th, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Conifers in the hushed air high in the Sangre de Cristo

Ever since our recent snow, the mountains above Santa Fe have been shrouded in thick clouds, the middle and higher peaks invisible behind the grey and white stratus that broods over the ranges. Since it’s only a short drive from downtown up into the forests, there’s no reason not to take a moment out of the day to see what lies inside that mysterious veil. Ten minutes’ drive brings you to the border of the Santa Fe National Forest, and ten minutes more takes you high into the mixed-conifer forest, some 2000 feet above the city.

You can’t expect any views under these conditions, but you will witness the forest in an atmosphere of utter quiet and peace. Snow clings to every branch, deadening sound.

A tranquil and snowy forest

There is no wind to chill you. Your horizons are bound and foreshortened by fog, and even a short walk takes you into a private world of meditative calm. Little things take on a new significance.

The cone of a Limber Pine, confected in snow and honeyed pitch

Soon the stillness seeps into your soul, and you can return to town refreshed, and ready to appreciate again the cultural delights of the Christmas season in Santa Fe.

The Breath of Winter

Tuesday, December 7th, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

The first snow in middle elevations

I know it’s not nearly as impressive as what those of you back East are enjoying right now, but here in Northern New Mexico, it’s been getting down below freezing most nights for the past two or three weeks, and there have been light snows in the mountains from time to time. Ski Santa Fe is scheduled to open on December 10, admittedly with the assistance of the snow-makers – but that lets you know it’s cold up there.

I like all kinds of weather, but I’ll confess that, from a geological point of view, it’s a little disappointing to see the ground disappear under the snow. You get a notion to have a look a particular belt of outcrops, only to be thwarted by that unusual mineral called ice. The last few weekends have been dry and relatively warm, however, and I’ve been getting out for some nice walks on the Chamisa Trail and the lower parts of the Winsor Trail, all good hikes in almost any weather, and blessed with wonderful light on a sunny winter afternoon.

November ice on Tesuque Creek

On our side of the mountains, Winsor Trail follow Tesuque Creek up nearly to Hyde Memorial State Park before it jogs off to the north and begins its climb up toward the Nordic Ski Area and Ski Santa Fe. The water is beginning to ice over and there are only a few places now where you can see the water burbling along its stony bed. One unexpected pleasure of a winter hike: those difficult stream crossings in the spring are a breeze in the winter:

The stream crossing at the junction of Winsor and Bear Wallow Trails

Since the Winsor Trail basically crosses the entire Santa Fe Range from west to east, it gives the observant hiker a look at nearly all the fascinating rocks that crop out in the mountains. It also gives you a taste of several climatic zones and their associated flora and fauna, from dwarf cactus and spiky yucca on the south-facing slopes near Tesuque all the way to alpine tundra and twisted bristlecone pines on the flanks of Santa Fe Baldy. With some magnificent forests and meadows in between.

Most of my walks lately have been in the 8000 to 9000 foot elevation range, where the conifers are mixed in species and delight the eye with their variety.

A magnificent White Fir along the Winsor Trail

A number of key geological transitions can be seen on a walk along Tesuque Creek once you get in the habit of looking. One of the most notable ones occurs just north of the junction of the Winsor Trail with the Chamisa Trail. From this junction, downstream and to the west, the ground is littered with fragments of a dark, glittery, very distinctive rock called amphibolite schist. But as you walk upstream from the junction, through a meadow and just past a mysterious old overgrown stone dam, you’ll notice that the path is now simply an orangy-pink:

Fragments of pink granite on the forest floor

You’ve crossed  a fundamental boundary in the bedrock, one that separates a belt of strongly deformed and metamorphosed sediments with a heavy component of dark volcanic tuffs and lavas, from an equally deformed belt of very hard pink granite. Not far after this transition the trail is forced to leave the pleasant meadows along the creek and cut its way along the canyon walls:

A rocky footpath in the granite above Tesuque Creek

Here you can get a good look at the granite, and see how it has been stretched by shearing forces deep in the Earth’s crust. This is  revealed by strongly aligned streaks of dark mica called biotite.

These rocks are exceedingly ancient, perhaps as much as 1.7 billion years old, and they got their distinctive textures via crushing in the roots of long vanished range of mountains, perhaps 10 – 15 miles deep in the crust. The granite was originally injected as a molten mass of rock, but it, too, was caught up in shearing forces after it crystallized (losing much of its countertop potential into the bargain, I might add).

If you’re like me, you might gain some appreciation of the trouble geologists must go to, to mark these boundaries on their maps. There simply isn’t any one place where X marks the spot, and all those beautiful trees and wildflowers simply obscure the facts. On the other hand, there are beautiful trees and wildflowers to look at – and subtler autumnal and winter vistas at this time of year – so whether you’re a rockhound or not, be sure to make time for a walk while you’re visiting us here in Santa Fe.

Getting There: I’ve been accessing this part of the mountains via the Chamisa Trail, a very popular trail a short way from Santa Fe, just inside the Santa Fe National Forest border.

From the Inn on the Alameda, you turn north on Paseo de Peralta, and then turn right at the light at the intersection of Paseo with Bishops Lodge Road. A second right at the next light, which is Artist Road, or NM 475, puts you on your way. About six miles along 475 you’ll see the sign marking the boundary of the national forest, and very shortly thereafter some parking place both on the left and (for overflow) on the right side of the road.

The trail maintained by the Forest Service is the uppermost one, at the trailhead to the right of the parking area, and this is the way I recommend. There is a less formal path directly along the creek, much favored by dog-walkers. After a mile’s walk along the trail you’ll reach a saddle with a sign, and another mile north brings you to Tesuque Creek and the junction with the Winsor Trail. There are beautiful meadows along here where you might enjoy a thermos of something hot. If you head west, downstream, you’ll encounter outcroppings of metamorphic rocks, and if you head east, upstream, you’ll see the transitions I’ve written about above. An ambitious hike will bring you to the meadow at the junction with the Borrego Trail, where you will see boulders of yet another crystalline component of the Santa Fe Range. But that’s for another time.

A boulder of pink foliated granite next to boulder of grey tonalite

The Aspen

Monday, October 11th, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Sometimes you just don’t need to say very much. This is what it looks like in the mountains above Santa Fe right now:

Looking back along the Aspen Vista Trail

Trees along the road to Ski Santa Fe

Big Tesuque

Monumental sky above Tesuque Ridge

This could be you!

Saturated yellow along Winsor Trail

A mountain of color

Walking along the Winsor Trail

Rocky Mountain Ash

Aspen leaves on the forest floor

Come see us.

Inn on the Alameda | The Authentic Guide to Santa Fe is proudly powered by WordPress
Entries (RSS) and Comments (RSS).

Page Bottom