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The Authentic Guide to Santa Fe

Archive for May, 2010

Tasty Santa Fe Recipes from the Inn on the Alameda

Monday, May 24th, 2010 by Santa Fe Red

When you think of travel, one of the things that pops into your mind is what you had to eat that you wish you could have again. Food is definitely one of the elements that makes a journey memorable, and sometimes just the hint of a special aroma brings you back to that place and time. The scent of good green chile works that way, and regular recipe requests for the green chile croissants served at the Inn’s complimentary breakfast are the proof, so we are happy to help you bring this yummy memory into your own casa!

Yummy green chile croissant

The good news is that green chile can travel back home with you easily in its frozen form. All our local markets sell it, and there are a variety of brands from which to choose, although you should believe the packaging when it is labeled “HOT.” Simply slide your frozen tub of green goodness into a ziploc bag, slip it into your carry-on bag, and voila, it will be defrosted and ready to use when you arrive back home. Do make sure your chile is frozen, since once it liquifies, it will be confiscated by the TSA at check-in. As in all recipes, the better your ingredients, the better the results. If you are a real baker, you can make your own croissant dough, but since good green chile is the dominant flavor, packaged dough is a lot easier if  you are not an aspiring French boulanger! So, without further ado, here’s how to make the green chile croissant appear on your own breakfast table!

For Green Chile Croissants, you will need the following ingredients for each croissant:

Frozen croissant dough
3 oz. of thinly-sliced lean deli ham per croissant (vegetarians can leave this out and replace with extra cheese and vegans can get creative with roasted veggies – locals use zucchini with green chile to make calabacitas)
2 oz. of good-quality thinly-sliced swiss cheese per croissant
A container of chopped green chile, defrosted and well-drained (and we do mean well-drained, or your croissants will be gooey)
2 eggs, beaten with a few oz. of milk

Follow the package directions for thawing croissant dough (keep it covered with a damp towel as you use it and bring it to approximately 90 degrees). Pre-heat your oven to 350 degrees.
Prepare an egg wash made of 3 eggs and a touch of milk. Blend these ingredients well and have a pastry brush ready.
The croissant dough is packaged in pre-cut triangles: On the wide end of the triangle, place several thin slices each of swiss cheese and ham, and sprinkle with the well-drained, chopped green chile. Roll the dough towards the small end of the croissant. It doesn’t matter if some ham and swiss are exposed, and exact amounts will vary depending on the size of your croissant dough.
Brush the egg wash very lightly over the exposed areas of each croissant.
Place a small thin piece of swiss on top of each rolled croissant. If you like extra heat, you can sprinkle the cheese with a light dusting of red chile flakes.
Place the croissants on a cookie sheet pan and place in the pre-heated oven to bake for approximately 20-22 minutes or until the dough is golden-brown.

You can use your left-over green chile in any number of other incarnations, some of which are included in the great cookbook from the Santa Fe School of Cooking. And of course, if you travel for autumn in Santa Fe, you can buy your chile fresh, pack it in a two-day priority box and roast it on your own when you get home.

Art Charlie, Santa Fe's friendliest barman

The second recipe request we always receive at the Inn is for the delicious Sangria served at our afternoon wine reception. While you can’t bring Charlie home to serve it to you, you can make this refreshing beverage to serve at your next patio party, preferably with a green chile appetizer! This liquid pleasure is so easy to put together, and you needn’t use a treasured bottle from your cellar to please your palate.

For the Inn’s Sangria Suprema:

In a 64 oz. pitcher: pour 1/3 to 1/2 bottle of any big, fruity wine (Syrah is good, and if there’s a Trader Joe’s handy, the three-buck Chuck reds will do fine). Add 3 tsps. superfine sugar, 1 1/2 cups fresh-squeezed orange juice (emphasis on fresh), and 1 1/2 shots of blackberry brandy. Fill the remainder of the pitcher with a decent lemon-lime soda. For a pretty presentation, you can float fresh fruit or fruit slices on top, and serve over cubed ice in a quality wine glass.

It’s that simple! Now you’re qualified to bring the red (sangria) and the green (chile) into your own home, to enjoy the memories and the taste of Santa Fe all over again!

The Rio En Medio Trail

Monday, May 17th, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Trail name: Rio En Medio: map link here.

Recommended seasons: The lower part of this trail is an all-seasons trail, although it can be icy in winter. There are a number of shallow water crossings and you’re likely to get your feet wet in spring runoff so plan accordingly. A walking stick helps with the crossings. Dogs (on leashes) and mountain bikes are permitted.

The parking at the lower, western trailhead is very limited.

Small cascades along the Rio En Medio

A walk along the lower parts of the Rio En Medio Trail is one of the more pleasant hikes you can make in the Santa Fe area, especially now that the weather is warming up. This trail practically defines the words “riparian environment” for me. At no time do you leave the pleasant gurgling music of the little creek, born far above, practically in the parking area of Ski Santa Fe, and the shade, the mix of vegetation – so different from the arid hills literally a few steps away from the trail – and the spectacle of an unexpected waterfall about a mile and a half up the walk all make this a very rewarding excursion.

The weather in Santa Fe was perfect on Sunday, far too nice to spend on any mundane yard work, and the Rio En Medio hike suggested itself immediately. The trailhead is about 14 miles north of Santa Fe, and the drive requires you to cruise through the little village of Tesuque, so if you haven’t packed a lunch, stop at the popular Tesuque Village Market for something to carry along. Their Dream Bars are. . . dreamy. A turn on NM 592 just beyond the village sends you into picturesque badlands and eventually brings you to a tiny trailhead, maintained by the National Forest Service, just past the little settlement of Rio En Medio.

The trail winds through bright green thickets of willow, river birch, and Rocky Mountain maple that cluster along the creek. In many places it passes through dark groves of Gambel Oak that grow out of the canyon walls. Some of these groves are so twisty and tangled that a friend and I call it the “Witches Forest”:

Tangles of Gambel Oak along the Rio En Medio Trail

Most of the trail is as cheerful as can be. There is an amazing show of Canadian violets this year:

Canadian violets

In places the canyon opens up a into tiny meadows that host sunny, fragrant groves of Ponderosa pine:

Ponderosa pines along the Rio En Medio

Some of these pines are impressively big, with thick, cinnamon-colored plates of bark:

An old Ponderosa

And if you haven’t done it before, this is the time of year to put your nose up to these thick boles and breathe in – you’ll get a very pleasant surprise.

One oddity I’ve noticed in the stream-laced canyons of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains here in Northern New Mexico is the occasional apple tree, growing far from cultivation. They are blooming now, in practically bridal bouquets:

Apple blossoms

Are they escapes, or are they remnants of old settlements far up here in the mountains?

About a mile and a half from the trailhead, the canyon walls begin to crowd together, and if you manage to keep to the creek – and don’t mind getting you feet wet – you can enter a small slot canyon carved into the granite and gneiss:

The "Little Chasm" along the Rio En Medio

And at the end of this box is a bright cascade of water, and a good place to have a snack:

Little Chasm Falls on the Rio En Medio

The main trail actually skirts this slot in the rocks and switchbacks up a steep outcropping of granite, with views of the falls from above. The trail continues much further along the creek and eventually brings you up to Ski Santa Fe, but I haven’t walked the entire length of the path. I do know that there is a very charming series of cascades above the waterfall, so you might want to keep on going a bit to see these.

Of course, I can’t leave you without mentioning the rocks. The Rio En Medio cuts its way through the tough crystalline rocks of the Santa Fe Range, and there are plenty of glittering fragments of metamorphic and granitic rocks along the path. But keep your eye peeled for an unusual variety of granite pegmatite called graphic granite, which I often find on a walk here:

A fragment of graphic granite on the forest floor

The intimate intergrowth of pink feldspar and grey quartz mimics runes or cuneiform writing, hence the name.

This is also a great walk for those birders out there, and if you are interested in butterflies, you’ll find them in abundance here. The Rio En Medio Trail is generous with everybody.

Getting there: From the Inn, take Paseo de Peralta north and around to its intersection with Bishop’s Lodge Road. Turn right, and follow Bishop’s Lodge Road north out of Santa Fe, through the village of Tesuque, to its intersection with NM 592. There is no stop sign or light at this intersection; look for the sign directing you to the Auberge Encantado resort. Follow this winding road into the village of Rio En Medio, about 5.5 miles away, and pass through the village on a very narrow, but paved road to the Forest Service Trailhead. Parking is extremely limited so you may have to be “creative” – but please abide by the wishes of the residents in the mouth of the canyon.

Vegetarian Santa Fe

Thursday, May 13th, 2010 by Santa Fe Red

True confessions: I am not so mindful as to have given up animal protein, but I do enjoy my healthful veggies along with those who are working their admirable way towards a higher consciousness. This kind way of eating is right in sync with the Santa Fe aesthetic, so it’s a pleasure to report that our little town has some big options for those who forego the way of the flesh.

Looking out at the Greenery at Body

Definitely on the list for its ability to satisfy vegetarians and vegans alike, Body is located at 333 West Cordova Road.  Not just a cafe, but also a spa and purveyor of soft and clingy clothing, Body boasts a completely organic menu that both tastes good and is good for you. And if you are a raw food purist, this is the place, with seven raw entrees on the menu! Everything we’ve tried so far at the Cafe has been appetizing in appearance, preparation and portion, and meat eaters can add chicken or fish to pump up a dish to their taste. You wouldn’t imagine that a collard green burrito would be on your list of things that are must-try, but for vegans, it’s a great choice, the collards tender and not bitter and the nut cheese creamy and dotted with cashews. The ambiance is soothing, with warm earth-tones and large picture windows that frame the outdoor greenery. Service is friendly but relaxed, with no pressure to hustle you on out when your plate has been collected. And once your plate has been collected, make sure you don’t ease out the door without dessert. This is chocolate that should be consumed without guilt, rich, dark, creamy and, in the case of the chocolate ganache with raspberry sauce, vegan! If you share a piece of this deeply delicious dessert, you can feel more virtuous when you admire the clothing on your way out, since the fit is one that makes sure you’ve been paying attention to your sweet calories!

A Collard Greens Burrito at Body Cafe

Another new gem that still seems to be largely undiscovered so far is Louie’s Corner Cafe, perched right on the NE corner of West Alameda and Galisteo Streets, a location that was just waiting for the perfect food fit. Named for a beloved pooch, this spot is unlikely to see a doggie bag, as everybody seems to clean their plates with gusto. The vegetarians in my family love the “fakin bacon” in the BLT, and the non-vegetarian was well contented with a juicy grilled Reuben sandwich with a refreshing cucumber salad on the side.  For those who like breakfast at dinner, try the migas (cheesy eggs scrambled with tortilla strips), which are divine; there was no question of what to order when I saw the look on the friendly server’s face after asking whether it should be the omelet or the migas! Speaking of omelets, however, there are a number of choices, including both Johnny-Be-Good and Johnny-Be-Bad versions, a nod and a wink to the clever entree titles scattered throughout the menu. Although a bit more for vegetarian palates than those of vegans, there is a vegan breakfast burrito, as well as several salads and sandwiches, along with a build-your-own sandwich option. Their strawberry tea is a refreshing treat to enjoy out on the patio while you’re watching the world stroll by, and a beer and wine license is now in place.

Louie's on the Corner

Shohko's Sushi

If you are hankering for fresh Oriental flavors, you can’t do better than Shohko at 321 Johnson Street! Continuously in business in Santa Fe for 34 years, this place does it right. Vegetable tempura is light and crisp and includes a chunk of green chile, and the bento box lunch gets veg-friendly when you order tofu instead of chicken or salmon. Vegans and vegetarians both do fine with the seaweed spinach salad and a few selections from the vegetarian sushi menu, and you can even order a sake flight if you know what you’re doing. Add in the serene atmosphere and Shohko’s presence in the kitchen, satisfaction guaranteed!

Veggie Chalupas at Atrisco

Of course, you ARE in Santa Fe so you have to try some sizzling green chile at some point, whether it’s coating a burrito or pooling on a plate of cheesy enchiladas. As much as we love several well-known downtown spots for local cuisine, crowds at the doorway can be a deterrent, so find your way over the the innocuous DeVargas Mall (Paseo de Peralta at Guadalupe Street) to settle in at Atrisco. The location makes getting a table easier, and including many locally grown foods is part of their mission. Vegetarians who love cheese are naturals for New Mexican cuisine, and vegans will enjoy the Veggie Especial, which has three incarnations, an enchilada plate, burrito or stuffed sopaipilla, with veggie chalupas on the menu for lighter appetites.

Real Food Nation

Finally, if you want to get out of the city and take a short drive to delicious, head for Real Food Nation, on the Old Las Vegas Highway at the junction with I-25 North (exit 292). Mostly organic, with vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free choices like roasted beet salad or creamy tomato soup, and gluten-free pizza by the slice, this spot is popular with the locals who live tucked in against the foothills of the Sangre de Cristos. You can check out the Meal of the Day postings on their website, then eat in or take it to go for a picnic in the mountains. You have to give kudos to a restaurant that has its lettuce garden in full glory outside the front door, along with five acres of on-site produce – now that’s farm to table!

Between these options and the Inn’s breakfast, with organic cereals, dairy and coffee, you can put your vegetarian palate at ease. You’ll eat as well as the others do, no sacrifices needed!

Eyes on the ground: Hiking the Dale Ball Trails in Santa Fe

Monday, May 10th, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

 

Trail name: Dale Ball Trails South: map  link here and here.

Recommended seasons: These are all-seasons hikes. The trails can be snowy in winter but they are unsuitable for snowshoes. The Dale Ball Trail system ranges in elevation from 7000′ to 9000′ above sea level.

Dogs (on leashes) and mountain bikes are permitted. No horses. These trails are maintained by the City of Santa Fe and are very well marked.

 
A natural abstract painting of lichen and gneiss along the trail

I didn’t have as much time to spend up in the mountains as I usually do, this past weekend, and so on Sunday afternoon I made a short drive to the Nature Conservancy’s Santa Fe Canyon Preserve and had a walk along the Dale Ball Trail network up toward Picacho Peak – a hike I have described before. This is one of my favorite “I don’t have much time” hikes, one which I like to recommend to guests here at the Inn on the Alameda. My original intention was to follow the trail almost to the top of Picacho Peak, but then turn south and make a traverse that follows the ridge line over to Atalaya Mountain, another favorite destination for local hikers. But what with my late start, and a leisurely pace, I abandoned this plan when I got to the junction and turned back to make an equally leisurely walk back.

All of the Dale Ball Trails wind around in what can be considered the “foothills” of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, which form Santa Fe’s dramatic backdrop. You’ll find quite a few local folks on these walks, many of them giving their dogs an outing. And while most of the trails stay in the “sun forest” of pinon pine that surrounds Santa Fe, green and fragrant all through the year, an observant hiker will find all kinds of signs of the changing seasons on the forest floor: 

First flowers of "Perky Sue", an early-blooming composite in the aster family

 

New Mexico is favored by more flowering varieties of the penstemon clan than any other state. One of the first to bloom is the graceful little Sidebells penstemon. They need another week, but the pretty grey-green spikes, nodding as they do right before pulling themselves erect and flowering, are everywhere in the hills:

Sidebells penstemons about to bloom. Penstemon are in the snapdragon family.

Soon these will be holding up a spike of violet-pink trumpets, with a tiny little “beardstongue” sticking out of each one.

Cactuses bloom in May regardless of the weather. The southern exposures of the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo are home to all kinds of winter hardy cacti. Here’s a cluster of hedgehog cactus aching to bloom:

Flower buds on a hedgehog cactus

Already you can hear hummingbirds whirring through the forest, twittering with anticipation. And there are frisky lizards all over the rocks. I even saw a tiny little horned toad in the stony litter along the trail. I always consider this a blessing, since for years these odd creatures seemed to have vanished. 

Everywhere you turn on these hikes, you seem to find  peaceful, natural rock alcoves as serenely disciplined as a Japanese garden. This twisting pinon lacks nothing except a statue of the Buddha to complete the picture:

A pinon pine along the trail

And – you know me – you can never disregard the rocks. Everywhere you walk in the Santa Fe Range, you will find the ground littered with fragments of very coarse granites in striking colors of red, pink, and white:

A boulder of red granite pegmaite shot through with quartz

Many of these fragments of pegmatite shine with silvery plates of white mica, and very occasionally you will find even more exotic minerals within, like these crystals of black tourmaline sulking darkly in the heart of the granite:

Black tourmaline, or "schorl" exposed in a pegmatite dike

Too bad they’re not gem quality! Or maybe not. The general metallic barrenness of the southern Sangre de Cristo Mountains spared them from the ravages of mining seen, say, up in Colorado, or south of us, in the Ortiz Mountains.

I’ll have more to say about the origin and significance of pegmatites in some future entry, but for now, I’ll just mention that these exotic rocks add a great deal of spice to your walks above Santa Fe. They fill fractures everywhere in the crystalline rocks, giving all sorts of interest to the outcroppings:

Pegmatite dike cutting across a ledge of gneiss

You probably noticed all these photographs were taken looking down. There are plenty of wonderful views along the Dale Ball Trail, believe me. But some of the subtlest signs of Spring – and the not so subtle evidences of ancient igneous activity – can only be seen with an attentive spirit – and eyes on the ground. 

Go have a walk.

How to get there: the trailhead for the Dale Ball Trails South is in the parking area of the Nature Conservancy’s Santa Fe Canyon Preserve. From the Inn on the Alameda, follow Alameda Street east approximately one mile to where it ends in a 3-way stop. Turn left onto Upper Canyon Road and continue east approximately one mile, until the road makes a sharp left and becomes Cerro Gordo Road. Immediately after making this left turn, you will see the parking area for the Nature Conservancy to the right. The trailhead is marked at the far end of the parking area.

 

 

 

One-stop Santa Fe Shopping

Thursday, May 6th, 2010 by Santa Fe Red

Sanbusco Market Center

Uh-Oh! Didn’t remember to call Santa Fe Baskets to create a lovely gift basket for Mom this Sunday? Not a problem, you can do it yourself! Don’t have a basket? Head for Cost Plus at Sanbusco! Buy the basket and fill it with wine, spices and chocolates, mmmmm! Don’t have time to put together your own gift? Skip it and head for Sanbusco anyway, since it’s a perfect destination to facilitate Mother’s Day or special purchases throughout the year. (more…)

A Bad Day for Geology

Monday, May 3rd, 2010 by The Santa Fe Naturalist

Tesuque Creek in "Springtime" runoff

Perhaps I should modify that to say “a bad day for doing geology”, as in, it’s really hard to find subtle contacts in the rock record when the ground is covered in two inches of fresh snow, and the trail is still crusty with old snow (which I thought might be gone by now) and the critical exposures in the creek are covered by floods of ice water. I was pushing my luck, I admit, by driving up to the aspen belt and hoping for an idyllic stroll, but the weather this weekend put the icing on the cake – or rather, the mountains – with a spring storm that simply wouldn’t move along. (more…)

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