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The Authentic Guide to Santa Fe

Life IS a Dream in Santa Fe

July 25th, 2010 Santa Fe Red

Dream or Reality, Come Hear for Yourself

Life in Santa Fe is certainly dreamy in general, but even we who live in this southwestern dreamscape need the escape from reality that great art provides. Big dreams in the arts can pay off big time but there are no guarantees. What can you say about an opera company that would give up additional performances and guaranteed sell-outs of a production such as Madama Butterfly or The Magic Flute in favor of the challenges of a new production? I am referring, of course, to our own Santa Fe Opera and its continued commitment to new work, which this year has resulted in the world premiere of Lewis Spratlan’s Life is a Dream.

Segismundo Crowned a King: Dream or Reality

Based on a Calderon masterpiece of the Golden Age of Spanish Drama, this new opera by Lewis Spratlan won the 2000 Pulitzer Prize in Music and is finally in production, 35 years after its inception, thanks to the adventurous spirit that has ruled in Santa Fe from the humble beginnings of our beloved opera company. An exploration of provocative questions about the nature of perception and reality, this story in song lets us consider issues that have endured through the ages to this day. Celebrated conductor Leonard Slatkin and director Kevin Newbury have assembled a stellar cast of singers and designers, and the serendipity of Santa Fe’s 400th anniversary adds New World zest to the enjoyment of this dramatic work from Old Spain.

Woman's Compassionate Heart

Beauty Calls Forth Man

So much in this production is timely and demonstrates how certain aspects of civilization remain constant.  Concepts regarding how to rule, fear of the future, injustice, compassion, awareness of the natural world and the notion of Maya (life as an illusion), all these play a part in this grand drama. Both the composer and his librettist, James Maraniss, sought poetry – in fact, Mr. Spratlan says that “Poetry is the gunpowder for a composer” – and the text and the orchestra work seamlessly to bring the power of their poetry to life. Certainly, these are not the melodic strains that an evening of  Mozart might provide, but the wild ups-and-downs of the vocal lines and the eerie sounds emanating from the pit seem so apt for this tale of political intrigue and family drama.

King Basilio

The Nobleman Clotaldo

I found the casting to be appropriate and the acting genuinely convincing. Tenor Roger Honeywell, who debuted here in 2007 with another premiere (Tea: A Mirror of the Soul) returns to Santa Fe as Prince Segismundo, who must find a balance between his early life and his future, reality and the dream world. As his father King Basilio, bass-baritone John Cheek makes his Santa Fe debut as a ruler who wants to preserve the harmony of his kingdom but makes the fraught decision to take an omen as fact. Also back this year as the nobleman Clotaldo is baritone James Maddelena, who has enjoyed success in a number of avant-garde roles (think Nixon in China, as well as last year’s premiere, The Letter, in which he made his Santa Fe debut). Soprano Ellie Dehn makes her first appearance in Santa Fe in the pivotal role of Rosaura (with a simply beautiful aria at the end of the second act).  The shoes of the jester Clarin, who functions as jesters always do, with both humor and incisive insight, are ably filled by Keith Jameson, familiar to Santa Fe audiences from tenor roles past as well as his tenure as an apprentice. And apprentices function critically too, as Carin Gilfry, in her second year in the apprentice program, provides an archly amusing performance, along with baritone apprentice, Craig Verm, suitably scheming and somewhat oily. The chorus, as always, adds depth and vocal color, and Mr. Slatkin keeps the tip-top orchestra at the top of its game. And even though my life would be a dream if I am reborn as an opera singer (anybody listening?), I did not envy these performers the vocal challenges they worked to master in their roles!

Man or Beast?

The Counsel of a Wise Fool

Of course, this being Santa Fe, the summer weather played its part perfectly, with lightning and thunder thoughtfully adding theatrical effect as the house lights went down with the thermometer. Safe and warm in our seats in this beautiful covered outdoor theatre, we were able to engage fully with the dramatic power of this story. The expert lighting and starkly minimal and modernist stage settings provided just the right background and mood and offered a satisfying juxtaposition to the attractive costumes, evoking the Spanish court, but with unusual headresses that echoed the impending industrial age.

Life as a Dream presents the Drama of Sky and Stage: Photo by Paul Horpedahl

So, what do we say about this gutsy troupe turning its back on extra performances of the bankable known for an operatic voyage into the unknown? We say, “Bravo!” No surprise from this compelling company dreamed up in the high mountain desert by John Crosby! And what do we say to those of you who might want to take this voyage with them? We say get your tickets now, because there are only five chances to have this dream yourself. As Segismundo sings “Whether it’s real or not, to act well is what matters,” and the Santa Fe Opera has made it matter!

Santa Fe Opera Photos by Ken Howard (All Rights Reserved)

Disclaimer: Red is an art school graduate with a passing acquaintance of the piano, but is not a music critic! Here is what the real music critic says: http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/26/arts/music/26dream.html?ref=anthony_tommasini

Santa Fe Spanish Market means La Herencia!

July 21st, 2010 Santa Fe Red

Santa Fe Plaza: El Corazon de Santa Fe

The 59th Annual Summer Spanish Market takes place from 8am to 5pm on Saturday, July 24 and 9am to 5pm on Sunday, July 25 on the Santa Fe Plaza.

Each year, Santa Fe celebrates 400 years of Spanish heritage with the annual Spanish Market. While this event has both a summer and a winter incarnation, it is the July event that has the largest attendance.  That being said, those who want the culture but not the crowds, should consider returning December 4 and 5 for more leisurely looking, as well as a chance to enjoy the City Different in her holiday attire. Either way, the once-intimate Spanish Market has evolved into the largest exhibition of traditional Hispanic Arts in the United States, and since 2010 celebrates the 400th anniversary of our fair city, the 59th summer market should be muy bueno!

The traditional arts of Spanish New Mexico feature a broad array of materials and methodology, from sweetly simple straw applique to finely-carved and embellished Santos. The artisans of this culturally-rich but economically-poor region have historically used materials that were close at hand, since it was difficult to justify art supplies when resources were so slim. The state’s late entry into the U.S. was a blessing in disguise in terms of retaining the cultural authenticity found in these native crafts.

Traditional Straw Applique

Traditional Micaceous Pottery

Traditional Retablo

Spanish Market is a time for dedicated fans to add new items to their collections and for neophytes to receive a comprehensive introduction to the artistic heritage of the region. It also offers the  opportunity to speak directly with the artists about their creations, to learn if this is a family tradition or a new artistic adventure, to discover the history of an individual  medium, or to simply hear about a local’s favorite place to buy or eat green chile.

Participating artists are required to be of Spanish descent, and many are part of a family tradition that keeps the spark of la herencia alive by teaching the next generation both the artistic process and the respect due to the culture. Young artists have always been a part of Spanish Market, with a section specifically dedicated to emerging artists. The annual judging for Spanish Market includes the choice of one young exhibitor’s work to be used for the Winter Market poster. Buying a piece from one of these eager youngsters is a generous opportunity to support their desire to be part of the heritage with the possible bonus of owning an early work by a future master!

Moonlite by Robb Rael

The pool of both emerging and established artists includes those making contemporary pieces, since the event encompasses a Contemporary Hispanic Market, celebrating its 24th appearance as part of the festival. This exhibition takes place on Lincoln Avenue and is a showcase for Hispanic artists with a contemporary bent, showing painting, sculpture, jewelry and pottery.

In recognition of the religious heritage of New Mexico, there is a special Spanish Market Mass, naturally celebrated in Spanish, at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis on Sunday morning at 8:00am. Other unique events include a Friday night members-only preview at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center from 6:00-9:00pm for those who hold membership in the Museum of Spanish Colonial Arts. Other special events include an Emerging Artists Panel Discussion on Tuesday, July 20 from 5:30-6:30pm at the Museum, at which Curator Robin Gavin will talk with young adult artists Rose Leitner, Craig Moya, and Tomas Salazar y Weiler about their lives and their art, concluding with questions from the audience. Also at the Museum, on Wednesday, July 21 from 10:00-11:00am, former Museum Director, William Field, will lead a discussion on how to buy at the market based on his years of experience, useful advice indeed.

Cathedral Basilica de San Francisco de Assis

Reredo de La Conquistadora

If you love art and you love history and you love New Mexico, this weekend will satisfy on all accounts, and of course, as befits any Santa Fe fiesta, there will be food, music and dancing to satisfy those desires too! Hasta la Vista!

Never enough ART, Santa Fe!

July 14th, 2010 Santa Fe Red

ART Santa Fe 2010 takes place at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center located on the northeast corner of West Marcy and Grant Avenue from July 15-18. Hours: Gala Opening July 15 5-8pm; July 16 11am-7pm and 11am-6pm July 17-18

2010 ART Santa Fe at the Convention Center

After last weekend’s panoply of the arts, International Folk Art Market and SOFA West Santa Fe ( not to mention, a whole host of gallery openings),  you would think that Santa Fe would be ready for a rest! No way, Jose! This week, the dial is cranked up again with the tenth anniversary appearance of ART Santa Fe. And based on last year’s exhibition, 2010 will surely be a welcome return engagement for art lovers!

ART Santa Fe

This year’s exhibit opens, as it did last year, with a Gala Opening Night Vernissage (a lovely French term for a private showing held before the opening of an art exhibition), taking place on Thursday, July 15 from 5-8pm and benefitting the Santa Fe Art Institute. This, of course, is when the local arthounds and mavens will show up in droves to see art and each other. Given that Santa Fe has consistently ranked in the top three cities for art sales, collectors and interior designers should be out in force, hopefully with checkbooks in hand. We DO like to see artists make a living here in our city!

Although ART Santa Fe is celebrating its tenth anniversary, this is the first year that the festival will be held in our beautiful new Santa Fe Community Convention Center. This was such a great venue for SOFA West last week, with ample space, good airflow and good lighting, and this expansion of exhibit space will certainly add to the luster of ART Santa Fe. The list of exhibitors is quite deep, with local galleries such as Linda Durham, Zane Bennett and Charlotte Jackson welcoming their confreres (see, that vernissage word put me in a French mood! Oh, and Happy Bastille Day!) from around the U.S., as well as Japan and Germany.

Art is for Everyone!

Being that Santa Fe is the sort of place where art lovers want to do more than just look, ART Santa Fe has also put together a series of special events to enhance the experience. This year’s keynote speaker is New York Times art critic, Roberta Smith, who will present a lecture on contemporary issues in art on Saturday, July 17 at 6:30 p.m. in the lovely auditorium of the New Mexico History Museum. As an aside, for those who love our History Museum, consider scooting over to the Railyard for the resurrected Taste Of Santa Fe event this Saturday, July 17, from 2-6pm for a 35-restaurant tasting event whose proceeds benefit the museum!

The Art of Printing

Returning to ART Santa Fe again for informative daily demonstrations will be Landfall Press, founded by Jack Lemon. Landfall will be revealing the techniques and nuances of lithography, a real bonus for fair-goers this year, since the ample space of the convention center allows viewers to move around the demonstration areas, seeing the nitty-gritty of production from every angle. As part of its expanding How Things Are Made program this year, ART Santa Fe is also pleased to welcome, for the first time, the innovative works of Portland, Oregon-based Bullseye Glass Co., started 36 years ago as an artist cooperative. Both of these professional arts organizations will be on hand each day to show the back story of how great art comes into existence!

Shapes, Colors, Forms and Fun!

And there will be food! This year the art will not just be on view – some of it will be edible, too! In the spirit of the pop-up, nside the Convention Center will be an  elegant installation restaurant, Café Arte at the Fair. Attendees will be able to relax in the quiet ambience of a fine restaurant, while still within the venue. This chic setting will be open July 16-18 from 11am-3pm daily, with world-class fare provided by Santa Fe’s own Walter Burke, who previously anchored the Museum Hill Cafe. Doesn’t the promise of artistic cuisine always make things just a wee bit more enticing?

Art for the Body, Not Just the Soul

If your feet still hurt from strolling around last week’s plethora of art opportunities, than take time to rest them now, because ART Santa Fe is another once-a-year event that should not be missed!

SOFA Santa Fe? It’s NOT a couch!

July 8th, 2010 Santa Fe Red

SOFA West Santa Fe 2010 takes place at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center located on the northeast corner of West Marcy and Grant Avenue from July 8-11.

Santa Fe is enjoying an embarrassment of riches in the art world right now! It began this week with the SOFA West exhibit opening today, July 8 and running through Sunday, July 11 at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. These riches include the Santa Fe International Folk Art Market, also taking place this weekend, followed by the tenth anniversary appearance of ART Santa Fe from July 15-18. Following shortly will be the 59th Spanish Market, occurring on July 24-25 two weeks from now, SPIN (Silk Painters International) from August 1-6 and the 2010 Indian Market, taking place August 21-22. Even Albuquerque is on it, with Convergence, the biennial fiber extravaganza of the Handweavers Guild, occurring from July 18-25. Add in the terrific summer Santa Fe weather and you have a winning combination for a great experience!

SOFA West Santa Fe 2010

SOFA is an acronym for Sculpture, Objects and Functional Art, and all were in evidence at the preview opening for the western version of this vast exhibition. Originating in Chicago, with a New York and now a New Mexico component, this annual art fair offers a splendid opportunity to see traditional media presented in both classic and cutting edge iterations. And our fresh and still-new Community Convention Center provides an excellent venue for a display of this nature.

The works on exhibit ran the gamut from Diego Romero’s Mimbres-style pottery with comic-book flair to lacy, filigreed wall pieces by Julia M. Barello made from, of all things, dyed X-ray film! Familiar names like Wendell Castle, Viola Frey and Kay Sekimachi were represented, as well as local favorites like Erika Wanenmacher and Rick Dillingham. The scale ran from an enormous metal kimono made by Gordon Chandler to Jan Huling’s intricate petite anime-style figures covered with the tiniest of seed beads (surprisinglyl affordable!). A plethora of woodwork demonstrated the finest of craftsmanship as did a broad array of wildly inventive jewelry, and glass was represented by far more artisans than just pioneer Dale Chihuly.

Lil Goth Girl by Beadist Jan Huling: Lyons Wier Gallery

Gallery participants, as well as the artisans, came from around the globe as well as right down the street. Galleries like browngrotta arts from Connecticut represented as many as 90 artists while Lyons Wier from NYC brought only one. Tai Gallery from the Railyard may be a local institution, but their roster shows off the fabulous basketry skills of far-off Japan; I can only say “wow” after seeing the work by Yufu Shohaku! The Danish Galleri Bruno Dahl’s Lars Calmar showed rough and tough but moving ceramic figures in counterpoint to the refined glass works by Lino Tagliapietra that can be found locally at Holsten Gallery. There is definitely something for every taste!

The Basketry of Yufu Shohaku: Tai Gallery

Educational information abounds as well. In the hallway outside the gallery spaces, a variety of educators were available to entice with offerings for those who wanted to take this experience further into hands-on learning rather than just experiencing with their eyes. And education gave over to reverie at the end of the hall where Morgami Jin was quietly and patiently demonstrating the simplicity and skill involved in Japanese basketry. A series of free lectures takes place daily, with subjects such as “My Hands are My Favorite Tools.” YES!

After viewing this exhibition, I have only two wishes: (1) I wish I had been able to make some of the beautiful things I saw, and (2) I wish the fair would linger a bit longer than one extended weekend, so that more people, both Santa Feans and visitors, could enjoy all of this terrific work! Go see it before it’s gone…

Summer + Santa Fe = Opera!

July 4th, 2010 Santa Fe Red

The Santa Fe Opera: Photo by Robert Godwin

Quick! What was the first opera performed by the Santa Fe Opera in 1957? The answer? Madama Butterfly! And she is back in Santa Fe for the summer 2010 season! I first fell in love with opera right here in Santa Fe when I took a job as an usher, back in the days when standing for four-plus hours was a more do-able proposition. This time around, I was able to enjoy the glorious music of Giacomo Puccini comfortably seated for this classic of the repertoire. Financial support for the Opera has been a long-held commitment of the Inn’s owner, Joe Schepps, and thanks to his generosity, I was privileged to attend the Opening Night for the first time last Friday.  And what a night it was!

Opening Night Crowds

Arriving at the Opera early is always a good idea, since it allows you to relax, enjoy the view, admire the tail-gating parties and avoid the stress of crawling uphill in a line of cars, fearing that you might miss the overture and have to stand through the first act. No joke! After the music begins, there is no seating until a viable opportunity, which might well be the second act! Opening night includes a tradition of champagne for all, an especially magnanimous gesture in these economic times, and one that was obviously much appreciated by all the patrons I saw with flutes in hand. Despite the promise (kept) of inclement weather, the tail-gaters were out in force, one more elaborate than the next. From crisp white tablecloths to TV tables to Japanese umbrellas, the dinner party set-ups ran the gamut, and so, I am sure, did the menus.

Dining Al Fresco!

If preparing a meal for tail-gating is not your thing, the Opera offers picnic suppers as well as a preview buffet before every performance, which offers an easy way to arrive early and feel fresh. The preview dinners even have the added benefit of a knowledgeable guest speaker, who provides background information about the night’s performance during the dessert course, just another demonstration of the Opera’s mission of educating its present and future audiences. And for those who only want the education and not the meal, informative 7:00pm lectures in Stieren Orchestra Hall take place twice nightly before performances; the first talk begins two hours before the performance with the second one hour before curtain.

Some Asian Tailgating

The Simple Solution

My good friend’s mother, Christine, always says, “There is only one opera, and it’s Italian,” and certainly any production of Puccini’s work fulfills this requirement. The casting of this year’s production boasts strong voices all around, and Butterfly has been a standard of many companies for good reason. The background history for this sad tale reveals some of the more uncomfortable aspects of occupying forces, a sentiment particularly felt at a time when our nation is currently embroiled abroad. (For another view of the U.S. Military, return to Santa Fe for the premiere of the Tim Hetherington/Sebastian Junger film Restrepo, on Friday, July 30 at the Lensic). Given the upstanding character of Sharpless, the American consul, in this Puccini masterpiece, it seems to be Lt. Pinkerton’s nature as a person, not his position as a U.S. Naval officer, that leads to the opera’s tragic ending. He is just NOT a nice guy, although the terrific vocal fireworks by Brandon Jovanovich made one really want to like this well-cast, well-built lieutenant. As Cio Cio San, poor Butterfly, Kelly Kaduce never faltered in this demanding and heart-felt role, despite the arrival of wind-driven rain drifting onto the stage from the southern end of the theater, which must have been a challenge. Very able assistance from the rest of the cast and chorus earned an immediate, lengthy and well-deserved standing ovation for a great performance punctuated at dramatic moments by equally dramatic lightning and thunder.

Kelly Kaduce as Cio Cio San: Photo by Ken Howard

A Tragic Love Duet from Madama Butterfly: Photo by Ken Howard

And what a classic New Mexico thunderstorm it was! I remember so well the days of yore, when the theater had just the barest overhang, and patrons would don their rain parkas or flee in the face of summer’s Santa Fe weather. Those were the days when standing room was not a bad thing! Not to say that we escaped this time, however…although we were sustained by the great music still ringing in our heads, it was a long walk back to the car in a drenching downpour. Be wise, dress warmly and bring your umbrella!

Thank You, John Crosby, for your Vision!

In addition to Madama Butterfly, this season’s offerings include the opera most often performed in Santa Fe, Mozart’s Magic Flute, which opened on Saturday the 3rd. Next up will be Offenbach’s Tales of Hoffman, opening on July 17. Having read in depth about the Met’s performance of this piece last winter, I am looking forward to the Santa Fe premiere, despite its 3+ hour length. SFO is to be commended for its continued commitment to bringing new work to the stage, and this year is no exception, with the first production of Lewis Spratlan’s Pulitzer Prize-winning opera, Life is a Dream, based on a masterpiece from the Golden Age of Spanish drama and premiering on July 24th. Premiering on July 31 is the fifth work from the company this year, Albert Herring, a comedic work by Benjamin Britten, a composer who was well-served by SFO in the Richard Gaddes era, with stunning performances of Peter Grimes and Billy Budd in years past.

The Magic Flute: Photo by Ken Howard

The Magic Flute: Photo by Ken Howard

If a full-length opera with a 9:00 pm curtain is too much of a good thing, don’t forget about the Opera’s Apprentice Concerts, taking place this year on August 15 and August 22, both with an 8:30pm curtain and both without the commitment to three or four acts. The Santa Fe Opera was the first professional company in the U.S. to begin an apprentice program of this nature and has been well-served by a methodology that allows this small company to mount big productions without the expense of highly-experienced technicians in every job slot. Many is the apprentice who has returned to the Santa Fe stage as a full-fledged career professional!

For those who stay in the City Different for several days, a backstage tour of the Opera is an enjoyable way to take a peek into what is involved in bringing this great music to fruition. Tours take place through August 28th at 9:00 am Monday through Friday, with no reservations needed and a modest $5 fee for adults, with children under 17 free.

If you love opera, now is the time to get on the phone and call for the best dates and the best seats. By August 1st, there will be performances every night except Sunday! The Inn on the Alameda is just a short drive from the theater and if you don’t have a car, you can relax, since the Opera shuttle buses stop right the Inn’s front door! The thrill of sublime live music in a fantastic outdoor setting on a beautiful New Mexico night is a winning combination for an experience you won’t soon forget!

Opera Night Sunset over the Sangres

Our sincere congratulations to General Director, Charles McKay, and to all of the dedicated staff and performers of the Santa Fe Opera, on the start of a beautiful new season. We’re so happy you’re back!

The Butterfly Meadow

June 28th, 2010 The Santa Fe Naturalist

Santa Fe National Forest: The Aspen Vista Trail

The Aspen Vista Trail is probably the most popular trail in the Santa Fe area. The trailhead, with abundant parking, is around 14 miles from downtown Santa Fe, right along Hyde Park Road (NM 475) and the trail itself is a 5.7 mile doubletrack with a wide grade and wonderful views, especially in the autumn. The elevation of the trailhead is at 10,000 feet, and if you make it to the crest of Tesuque Ridge, you’ll find yourself on the lip of a cirque at nearly 12,000 feet, well above tree line.

The hike I’ll be describing is a much shorter excursion of about a mile, with a steep side trip along upper Tesuque Creek to a unique meadow. While the Aspen Vista Trail is open to dogs on leashes, livestock, and mountain bikers, the unmaintained path to the meadow is steep and littered with downed aspen, making it impassible for livestock and bikes. This is definitely a summer and autumn hike. Be prepared for thunderstorms from June through September.

The Butterfly Meadow from my rain shelter under a spruce tree

Several years ago I was lucky enough to be invited to a butterfly census around the Fourth of July weekend, led by a local lepidopterist (the oddest things happen in Santa Fe) and the high point of the walk – literally – was a tiny meadow along upper Tesuque Creek, just off the Aspen Vista Trail. Full of flowers – and butterflies – this little rift in the forest has been a favorite place to visit over and over again, to enjoy the changing palate of wildflowers that it offers over half the year. Although it has no formal name, for me it will always be the Butterfly Meadow. It’s a remarkable spot.

I still haven’t learned the names of all the flowers that live there. I learned three new ones this weekend alone, among which was a showy member of the mustard family that grows with its feet in the water:

Bittercress in Tesuque Creek

Who would have guessed that a hot-tempered plant like a mustard would like a frigid mountain stream?

The first of the seductive (and poisonous) Monkshoods are unsheathing their jewel-toned cowls:

Monkshood flowers

At this time the meadow is full of pale lavender Richardson geranium, bright yellow Mountain parsley, intensely red Scarlet Indian paintbrush, pink and blue Franciscan bluebells, and twinkly-white Cowbane. Deep carmine King’s crown is blooming along the creek, and there is plenty of magenta Shooting star along the walk up the path. Nature journalists have to bring all their colored pencils this time of year!

Franciscan bluebells and ferns in the meadow

Rock-lovers will enjoy the boulders of high-grade gneiss that fill the meadow:

Twinberry blooming in front of a beautifully banded gneiss

And of course – once the sun breaks out of those ominous thunderheads that have already gathered over Tesuque Ridge – the butterflies appear as if by magic:

Variegated Fritillary enjoying the sun

Butterflies aren’t the only creatures that enjoy this meadow:

Some nice ladies enjoying a picnic. This could be you!

Having disregarded my own advice about bringing rain gear, and tempting the summer rain gods thereby, I was of course caught in shower that came up with remarkable speed. Pellets of stinging ice were soon added, although I was spared the thrill of lightning. I crept under the dense skirts of a short Engelmann spruce that swept the ground and was immediately snug and dry in a fragrant cave where I could sit quietly and wait out the rain. And in that way that nature has of offering you a treasure if you will only be quiet and receptive, toward the end of my wait I spotted a carefully hidden nest among the boughs – the work of a Hermit thrush – with a perfect jewel lovingly set within:

A hidden jewel

I wouldn’t have spotted this in a hundred chattering hikes among the spruce and aspen. It took a time of enforced quietude for me to receive this gift.

Every weekend brings a new wave of blooms and butterflies to the mountains above Santa Fe, now that summer is here. You could do no better than to take John Muir’s advice:

“Keep close to nature’s heart . . . and break clear away once in a while, climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean. . . Go to the mountains and get their glad tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.”

Getting there: The Aspen Vista trailhead is clearly accessible at the eastern end of the extensive parking area along Hyde Park Road. From the Inn on the Alameda, you turn north on Paseo de Peralta, and then turn right at the light at the intersection of Paseo with Bishops Lodge Road. A second right at the next light, which is Artist Road, or NM 475, puts you on your way.

The path to the Butterfly Meadow is about 0.8 miles along the Aspen Vista walk, just after you see the sign that says “Tesuque Creek Trail” (which heads off downhill to your right). A few steps further along, you’ll see the creek flowing under the road, with the informal trail up the mountain just in front. You’ll be making a left turn and heading uphill. It’s a steep hike of about 0.2 miles, with lots – and I mean lots, after our hard winter – of downed aspen to step over, under, and around.

Tesuque Creek

A Special Santa Fe Summer Symposium

June 22nd, 2010 Santa Fe Red

Located at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center on the NE corner of West Marcy Street and Grant Avenue from July 6-8, 2010. Registration in advance at tcarlson@royalroadtours.com

Every summer, the art opportunities in Santa Fe seem to get better and better. The two-year-old SOFA (Sculpture Objects & Functional Art Fair) WEST Exhibit and its big sister, Art Santa Fe celebrating a tenth anniversary, are both now well-established and welcomed as summer events, and Santa Fe’s art educators have exhibited their wisdom by developing new ways for those who love art AND Santa Fe to learn more about each.

Santa Fe Community Convention Center

SOFA WEST returns to Santa Fe from July 8 to 11, and has worked with local arts professionals to organize an exciting three-day symposium entitled Historic Bond/Contemporary Spirit: Collecting New Southwest Native Pottery. This intriguing educational event begins on Tuesday, July 6, 2010, one day before SOFA WEST opens and runs through Thursday, July 8 at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. Attendees will also be welcomed to the invitation-only opening of the SOFA exhibit on July 7 at 6:30pm.

Blackware by Christine McHorse

Tailored to both the collector and the connoisseur, the Historic Bond/Contemporary Spirit symposium features presenters Garth Clark, who wears a multitude of hats as an author and specialist in modern and contemporary ceramics and as a curator, critic and art dealer; Bruce Bernstein, PhD, executive director of SWAIA (Southwestern Association for Indian Arts); and Ellen Bradbury Reid, former director of Museum of Fine Arts in Santa Fe (now known as the New Mexico Museum of Art) and currently head of Recursos de Santa Fe, the city’s well-regarded organizer of a variety of conferences and symposia that cover the panoply of arts, architecture and history, past and present, that distinguish the Southwest.

Garth Clark, himself a passionate collector, has said that the pottery culture of the Southwest is “rich, mesmerizing, unparalleled, and uninterrupted for two thousand years.” The symposium creates a venue in which a small group of pottery enthusiasts can travel back through the millennia with their guides, both noted scholars and Native Potters, via a thoughtful program of travel, demonstrations and lecture presentations.

Dr. Bruce Bernstein of SWAIA, a principal organizer of the Historic Bond/Contemporary Spirit symposium, has said that the program was designed to explore the ongoing meaning of pottery in the culture while examining the great beauty of today’s creations, since through the years, “Southwestern Native pottery has been through cycles of renewal and regeneration, resulting in compelling contemporary innovations including new forms, techniques and symbolism.”

Key organizer Ellen Bradbury Reid, of Recursos de Santa Fe, notes that it is verging on 25 years “since there was a serious recap of the world of pueblo ceramics.” While newer Native pottery has moved from traditional to innovative and even irreverent,  the roots of the process remain strong and visible. The work of the younger potters shows a freshness  and inventive quality that appeals to collectors and curators alike.

Acoma Pueblo

The program has been well thought-out and includes exclusive curatorial tours of prehistoric and historic Pueblo pottery from internationally recognized museum collections, as well as private collections of historic and contemporary Native ceramics. As all art lovers know, experiencing the depth of  a private collection is one of the most exciting ways to indulge a passion, as well as being a rare privilege. The travel leg of the symposium takes participants to tour the Pueblo of Acoma, the Sky City, located 2 hours SW of Santa Fe, where they can witness the making of Pueblo pottery first-hand. Truly one of the most unusual of pueblos, with its location atop a mesa, Acoma is among the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the US, and its rich and unique history invites further study.


Pueblo Pintado in Chaco Canyon

For the truly intrepid traveler, the education can continue with an exploration of Chaco Canyon, the largest, best-preserved and most architecturally sophisticated of all the ancient Southwestern Native villages. On July 11 and 12, 25 adventurers can experience the striking aura of this prehistoric center of Anasazi ceremony and trade. Sturdy walking shoes, sunhats and sunscreen are required. Chaco Canyon is definitely a bucket-list place, and 26 miles of dirt road are rewarded by a glorious vision of the past.

July in Santa Fe promises to be hot, not only in temperature, but in choices for memorable art adventures – and this is truly one of them!

The Zen Forest

June 14th, 2010 The Santa Fe Naturalist

Pecos Wilderness: The Winsor Trail

The Winsor Trail is Santa Fe’s gateway into the Pecos Wilderness from the west. Its most popular trailhead is near the western end of the large parking area of Ski Santa Fe, at an elevation of 10,240 feet. On the map for which I’ve provided a link, the portion of the trail from the parking area to its intersection with the Nambe Lake Trail is shown, a walk of about 2.5 miles one way. There is a relentless elevation gain of 760 feet in about a mile, to reach the crest of Raven’s Ridge and the entrance to the Pecos Wilderness, so be prepared – this is the price everyone must pay to enjoy this beautiful walk.

Dogs on leashes, mountain bikes, and livestock are allowed on the Winsor Trail. You can hike this trail year round, but it is snow covered in the winter and snowshoes or cross-country skis might be necessary. Thunderstorms are very frequent in the summer and you’ll want to bring at least some light rain gear, because the showers are chilling. Lightning and hypothermia are dangers once you get above tree line.

A walk in the "Zen Forest" along the Winsor Trail above Santa Fe

The Winsor Trail, the local hiker’s route into the magnificent Pecos Wilderness east of Santa Fe, is beautiful from end to end, but there is a short section that passes through a grove of trees with such a remarkable quality of light and peace that I call it the “Zen Forest”.  And since you can reach this place after only a two mile walk from the parking area at Ski Santa Fe, it makes an ideal destination for a day hike during your visit with us.

I’m not sure exactly what accounts for the appeal of this stretch of aspen. The mature trees, tall and widely spaced, let in a generous amount of the radiant northern light. The dark spruces are widely spaced as well, and hang their dark boughs down in a manner admired by the Arts and Crafts printmakers, contrasting beautifully with the bright upright aspen. Huge boulders and outcroppings of white stone emerge from the forest floor in sculptural forms, nestled in a sea of bright green heath and wildflowers.  At any moment in this forest, you expect to hear the sound of temple bells, or catch a glimpse of a forest hermit reclining in the shadows.

Light and aspen

And the fragrance here is heavenly. In summer the air is drowsy with the balsamic scent of spruce needles, warming in the sun. In spring the powerful life-force of the tasseling aspen adds its note. And in fall, with the yellow leaves swirling down against an alpine blue sky and collecting on the stones, there arises the subtle fragrance of oriental lilies, faint but unmistakable, distilled somehow from the aspen leaves as they participate in the Eternal Return.

It’s hard for me to tell you exactly when you’ve reached the Zen Forest. Not too long after you’ve left the dense spruce thickets along the slow descent from the saddle at Raven’s Ridge, the trail begins to turn to the right, and aspen begin to replace the dark evergreens. These trees grow larger, the light magnifies, and presently you’ll reach a spruce whose branches sweep toward the trail, forcing adults to genuflect ever so slightly. You’ve entered the grove. By the time you reach the rustic little bridge over the Rio Nambe, you’ve left it.

Forest Service bridge over the Rio Nambe

Wildflowers are abundant here:

Golden Banner

In spite of the high elevation, some of these forest dwellers have an almost tropical luxuriance:

A spray of Corn Lily near the Rio Nambe

The clean white boulders that crop out in the Zen Forest add to the grove’s luminosity. A closer look at these rocks reveals complex patterns that hint at turbulent past lives:

Ancient metamorphic rock on the forest floor

Without leaving the thread of our story too far, I just want to mention that these are truly remarkable rocks. They are called migmatites, and they represent metamorphic rocks that have been subjected to geologic conditions so extreme that the rocks began to partially fuse, bleeding white granitic melt and contorting into fascinating marble-like patterns. 

When you reach the cheerful Rio Nambe and leave the Zen Forest, you will catch views of Santa Fe Baldy shouldering its great massif skyward, to the north:

Santa Fe Baldy, looking north from a clearing near the Rio Nambe

This might even be your destination, if you are in good shape and you’ve left the trailhead early enough, on a cool summer’s morning. You’d be about a third of the way there, with a climb to a rocky summit at 12,622 feet still facing you. But you might be content instead to sit quietly by the stream and take in the peace of the forest, and then make your way back home, blessed by your brief sojourn among the aspen of the Zen Forest.

Heading home

Getting there: The parking area at Ski Santa Fe is approximately 16 miles from the Santa Fe Plaza, at the very end of NM 475. From the Inn on the Alameda, you turn north on Paseo de Peralta, and then turn right at the light at the intersection of Paseo with Hyde Park Road. A second right at the next light, which is Artist Road, or NM 475, puts you on your way. The Winsor Trail trailhead is clearly marked at the northwestern corner of the parking area, and the Forest Service maintains some pit toilets and picnic facilities there. It would not hurt to bring a trail map if this is your first walk on the Winsor Trail. You can download the PDF from the link I provided above, or purchase a map at the Travel Bug right next door to the Inn.

A Rocky Mountain iris in a meadow near the Winsor trailhead

Something Special on the Santa Fe Plaza

June 7th, 2010 Santa Fe Red

Running through June 14 nightly at 8:30 pm in the second story windows of the Shiprock Gallery on the NE corner of the Santa Fe Plaza

What can one say about a four-hundred year-old destination? It’s timeless! That has been a standard answer – and a challenging question – for me when queried by journalists about what is new in Santa Fe. Much of what is so entrancing about our city is indeed related to its unchanging nature.  At the same time, however, one can become a bit inured to the usual charms of the city, passing by the backdrop of adobe and blue sky, galleries and taco spots, without ruminating on how it all came to be. The Santa Fe Plaza, jewel of our city center, always calls to us, however, and thanks to Almas de la Plaza and Shiprock Gallery, there is a fresh and different way to learn more about the history of Santa Fe, but you’ll have to catch this one fast!

The Catron Block on the NE Corner of the Santa Fe Plaza

Through June 14 – and perhaps longer, if enough delighted viewers call and beg for an extension – each evening  at 8:30 pm in the second-story windows of the Shiprock Gallery, located in the Catron Building on the NE corner of the Plaza, curious newcomers and old hands can be treated to a series of video vignettes recounting historical tales of the last 400 years of La Ciudad Real de Santa Fe de San Franscisco de Asis, i.e. Santa Fe, NM. Working with an assembled team of multimedia production students from IAIA, Highlands University and College of Santa Fe, Robert Drummond Studio used local actors and storytellers to bring this work to life with their talents. The production was made possible by the New Mexico Film Office, New Visions “Experimental” Award, funding from the Judith McBean Foundation and the generous support of the City of Santa Fe Mayor’s Office, Land Use Director and Constituent Services Manager.

Ghosts of Santa Fe's Past

Every segment of Santa Fe’s multi-cultural community is represented here in this intriguing hour-plus installation. Viewers are treated to tales of the distant and more recent past, as video projections introduce such notable and authentic Santa Fe characters as Dona Tules, famed courtesan and saloon-keeper; Governor Lew Wallace,  author of the classic Ben Hur, San Ildefonso potter Maria Martinez;  artist Will Shuster, one of the Cinco Pintores and creator of  Zozobra;  New Mexican suffragist Nina Otero Warren; Navajo medicine man and artist Hosteen Klah,  guiding light of the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian; and the subject of Willa Cather’s novel “Death Comes for the Archbishop” Jean-Baptiste Lamy, creator of Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis. It seemed like only Tommy Maccione was missing!

And not just celebrated Santa Fe notables come to visit. Basket-making is explained in its four stages by a young Native girl who learned about baskets and life from her grandmother. One of the many legendary tales of Coyote is recounted, and a Buffalo soldier expresses his delight at being able to fight in the Civil War for his rights as a freedman. A merchant’s wife tells of the numerous Jewish merchants who came west with the railroad and brought desirable goods that made the Plaza an early shopping destination. A Native runner describes the knotted rope he carried to inform the Pueblos of the exact time to begin the revolt of 1680. All of these stories are captivating, as demonstrated by the crowd that gathers nightly and stays on, despite the lack of adequate seating and the traditional summer circumnavigations of Plaza traffic, complete with noisy Harleys and Santa Fe Fire Dept. vehicles.

The Beautiful Santa Fe Plaza Awaits

This is a thoughtful and artistic expression of Santa Fe’s 400th anniversary, so abandon the TV in your hotel room or your cozy adobe home and head for the Plaza before its gone – you won’t regret it!

The Acceleration into Summer

June 2nd, 2010 The Santa Fe Naturalist

 

Cerrillos Hills State Park: Jane Calvin Sanchez Trail

Cerrillos Hills State Park has a number of trails, all of which you can see on the maps found on the website www.cerrilloshils.org. There is little shade in the park and your exposure to the sun is high, so be prepared with hats, water, and sunblock. Pets are welcome on leashes. Broken Saddle Riding Company uses many of the park’s trails for escorted horse rides.

Since this is a State Park, there is a $5 day use fee, payable at the parking area near the entrance of the park. There are no camping facilities.

Apache Plume in full headdress in the Cerrillos Hills

We are moving rapidly into summer, here in the Southern Rockies, and the natural world is bursting with activity. My favorite change can be seen from here in Santa Fe, looking up into the Sangre de Cristo  Mountains to the east: the grey expanses of aspen high on the mountains are donning their bright yellow-green coat, with the usual suddenness that never fails to impress me. It’s a look as soft as the fuzz on an elk’s new antler, and as welcome as summer itself. 

The alchemy of change is strong up there among the leafing aspen, and this is that brief moment of transition when the fairies appear in the forest. By which I mean, the fairy flowers; those two species that seem the most fairy-like of all our woodland flowers here – the diminutive Red Columbine, and the elusive Calypso Orchid.

Red columbines along the Winsor Trail above Santa Fe

 

A flower like this, bright red, with nectaries perched well up into tubes, is naturally pollinated by hummingbirds, and you can hear the flying jewels chattering under the forest canopy and whirring about. The complexity of this flower is fascinating:

Hummingbird's view of a columbine

Even more intriguing are the ephemeral Calypso orchids, or fairy slippers. After finding just one of these, years ago, along the Bear Wallow Trail, I have been searching in vain for another look. Our wet winter must have been the key to my luck this year, because I found an entire cluster of these beauties:

Calypso bulbosa along the Winsor Trail

This orchid has a surprisingly sweet fragrance, although I have to warn you that you’ll have to put your head practically on the forest floor to enjoy it.

Meanwhile, here below, in the more arid hills, a tougher set of flowers is showing off its resiliency. Our newest State Park, the Cerrillos Hills State Park, south of Santa Fe, has been offering a variety of nature walks, and this past Sunday the park’s ranger Sarah Wood led a wildflower walk along the Jane Calvin Sanchez Trail. The walk was very well attended; I think nearly 40 people showed up.

Wildflower walk in the Cerrillos Hills, south of Santa Fe

You’d be surprised at the number of flowers that bloom in this harsh environment. There were far more species flowering here than up under the aspen. Sarah gave us the lowdown on the most abundant of these:

Sarah and the Narrow Leaf Yucca

And she talked about the native grasses, another set of flowering plants many of us overlook:

Grass flowers are tiny

There were splashes of color everywhere:

Paintbrush growing among the rocks

 

Verbena

 This was a very pleasant way to spend part of a Sunday afternoon.

You can keep track of activities like these by visiting the State Park’s event website . And if you prefer to explore on your own, local bookstores like the Travel Bug, or Collected Works, or the Nature Center at the Randall Davey Audubon Center have good selections of guidebooks, from the most basic pamphlets, to tomes only a botanist could love.

Getting There: Cerrillos Hills State Park is about 25 miles south of Santa Fe, just a couple of miles off of Highway 14, the famous “Turquoise Trail” that connects Santa Fe to the eastern outskirts of Albuquerque. Turn into the scenic little village of Cerrillos, and then turn right at the sleeping dog – er, first stop sign, and follow the dirt road past the railroad tracks and Broken Saddle Riding Company to the park. Be sure and bring $5 to pay the day use fee.

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